A & E

Sunny Provence with its abundance of fresh vegetables and herbs has a cuisine that is fragrant and simple. Fresh fish is readily available from the sea, and markets overflow with local produce.

This recipe for Snapper Cote d'Azure can use any type of light, white fish fillet. I serve the snapper with Salade de Provence.

The snapper recipe calls for a vegetable that is becoming popular -- fennel. It has a bulbous look, with wide, celery-like stems and bright-green feathery leaves. It has a very light licorice flavor. I used the feathery leaves as a garnish.

Pernod, a licorice-flavored liqueur, is a perfect partner with fennel. You can buy small Pernod bottles -- called splits -- or use a dry vermouth instead.

This savory fish would go nicely with a rich, white wine-maybe viognier, or a big California chardonnay.

Salade De Provence

(French Provincial Salad)

• 1/2 small head soft bibb lettuce, washed and dried

• 4 radishes, sliced

• 6 green pitted olives

• 2 tablespoons reduced-fat dressing

• 1 small French baguette

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the lettuce, radishes and olives in a bowl.

Add the salad dressing and toss well. Warm the bread in the oven while the fish cooks.

Makes 2 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 226 calories (14 percent from fat), 4 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 1 milligram cholesterol, 9 grams protein, 41 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams dietary fiber, 352 milligrams sodium.

Snapper Cote d'Azure

• 3/4 pound red snapper fillets (about 1/2 inch thick)

• 1 cup thinly sliced fennel

• 1/4 cup chopped fennel leaves

• 2 teaspoons olive oil

• 2 medium cloves garlic, crushed

• 1/4 cup Pernod

• 2 tablespoons whipping cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Rinse the fish and pat dry with a paper towel. Remove the top of the fennel, wash the feathery leaves and chop. Wash the fennel and thinly slice. Heat the oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cup of sliced fennel and saute for 3 minutes. Add garlic and saute 2 minutes. Add fish and cook for 4 minutes per side. Remove the fish to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm.

Add the Pernod and reduce for 1 minute on high. Stir in the cream, and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce with the sliced fennel over the snapper and sprinkle the fennel leaves on top.

Makes 2 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 347 calories (32 percent from fat), 12 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 80 milligrams cholesterol, 36 grams protein, 5 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams dietary fiber, 137 milligrams sodium.

Linda Gassenheimer is a food writer for McClatchy Newspapers.

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