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Fresh-from-the-sea (and garden) pasta

"Spaghetti and clam sauce is easy to make, flavorful and gutsy," "Silver Palate" cookbook author Sheila Lukins told me in a recent interview. She adds raw tomatoes, scallions, basil and dried tarragon for unexpected fresh flavor in this Italian favorite.

I have adapted this recipe from her new book, "Ten: All the Foods We Love and Ten Perfect Recipes for Each."

When buying clams, look for shells that are tightly closed. At home, tap any shells that are open. They should close; if not, discard them. Store clams in the refrigerator loosely covered with a clean towel. Use them within two days. Scrub the shells under cold water before cooking them.

Complete the meal by tossing 4 cups Italian-style salad greens with 2 tablespoons reduced-fat Italian dressing.

A French muscadet is nice with clam dishes.

Sheila Lukins' Spaghettini With Clams and Herb Sauce

• Water

• 6 ounces spaghettini (thin spaghetti)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil (divided use)

• 4 medium garlic cloves, crushed

• 1/4 cup bottled clam juice

• 1/4 cup dry white wine

• 2 pounds little neck clams

• 2 cups diced ripe tomatoes

• 2 scallions, thinly sliced

• 1/4 cup snipped fresh basil leaves

• 2 teaspoons dried tarragon

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the spaghettini and cook according to package directions until al dente. Drain, toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil and set aside.

Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large, heavy saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until soft, for 2 minutes. Add the clam juice and wine. Cover with a lid, raise the heat to medium-low and simmer for 3 minutes to blend the flavors. Add the clams, cover and simmer, shaking the pan, until they open, for about 5 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open.

Transfer the clams and their juices to a large bowl. Add the tomatoes and scallions and toss. Sprinkle with the basil and tarragon. Season with salt and pepper. Toss lightly to combine.

Divide the spaghettini between 2 shallow bowls. Top with the clams and tomato sauce. Serve immediately.

Makes 2 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 560 calories (26 percent from fat), 16 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 23 milligrams cholesterol, 23 grams protein, 77 grams carbohydrates, 6 gramd dietary fiber, 198 milligrams sodium.

Linda Gassenheimer is a food writer for McClatchy Newspapers.