Lifestyles

When John McConaha, of Mt. Lebanon, talks about his watch collection, he quickly points out the model with probably the highest value "keeps terrible time."

Sometimes time-keeping isn't that important.

"It was a gift from my wife 25 years ago, and it has a great Swiss movement," he says of his Rolex, "but if I were just going to buy a watch to keep time, I'd probably get a Seiko or a Citizens."

Father's Day, a holiday often linked with the presentation of a watch, is a little more than a week away, and some gift-givers might be wondering exactly how much they have to spend for Dad.

It's not unusual to run into watches that cost $3,000. Andrew Ambrose, watch manager at Orr's Jewelry in Squirrel Hill, says a Jaeger-LeCoultre costing $175,000 will be featured in the store's Swiss Watch Fair next week.

"But there are plenty of great entry-level watches that keep excellent time and make great gifts," he says, mentioning Swiss Army and Raymond Weil units that run from $200 to $1,200.

Chad Rickicki, watch manager at Henne Jewelers in Shadyside, says there are great watches in the $500-$800 range.

The prices, but not the sincerity of the gift, can get even lower.

• Curt Marino, owner of Seita's Jewelers in Tarentum, says he has had great success with Bulovas, Seikos and Citizens that top out at no more than $400.

• "Buying a special watch is a lifetime purchase," says Brian Beeghly, owner of Beeghly and Keim Jewelers of Greensburg. He says it is possible to buy a $50 Pulsar, which he typifies as the lower line of Seiko, but advocates going a little higher for a special buy.

• He and Lenny Lithgow, manager of Kolman Jewelers in Monroeville, point out that Bulova is a reliable, attractive watch. They add that the Accutron, the upper end of Bulova, features luxurious watches for about $500.

  "I tell watch buyers the same thing I tell jewelry buyers," Beeghly says. "You should buy where you feel comfortable in that point in time."

Telling time on personalities

So what's the big deal?

If you can get a $50 Pulsar or $75 Timex that is water-resistant, keeps good time and requires only an infrequent battery change, why pay $3,000 for a Tag Heuer?

Lithgow says it is easy to get an inexpensive item, "but then you are looking for a timepiece, not a watch."

Orr's Ambrose believes the mechanics of a Swiss watch is the attraction. For example, the $175,000 Jaeger-LeCoultre will indicate the exact time with distinctive chimes. And it does that in a purely mechanical way. No batteries. No quartz machinery.

"People love watches they way they love cars," he says. "And for the same reason."

Dale Gordon, owner of D.S. Gordon Jewelers in Lower Burrell, Westmoreland County, does not handle high-level watches on a regular basis, but says five to 10 times as year, a customer asks him to find one.

"It's purely the mechanics," he says. "Battery watches may be efficient, but they don't hold their value."

Ambrose agrees.

"If you want to tell time, a battery watch is fine," he says. "If you are looking for something more artistic, the mechanics of a watch does it."

Gordon says watches with a Swiss movement generally increase in value -- a realization that often tempts a person to buy one.

And, he says, if a customer is willing to spend $800 on a classy Citizens, "they are already looking for more than just a timekeeper." That means they probably will be willing to spend several hundred more for a better watch.

Following that logic, Henne's Rickicki sees customers being drawn by a Victorinox chrono, a Mont Blanc or an Omega for between $1,000 and $1,500.

Even watchmakers seem to realize the market for the special watch. Timex, best known for its efficient, waterproof, "keeps on ticking" timepieces has introduced a sleek, gold-tone stainless steel watch with a leather strap that sells for $65.

It also is marketing a self-winding watch with a 22-jewel movement for $150.

Ambrose believes watches play a large role in the everyday and dress-up wardrobe.

"Watches clearly reflect who you are," he says. "If you have a Swiss Army watch and that represents how much you want to spend and how you want to present yourself, that's fine. That is the best thing about watches. They are jewelry for men, but they do a job, too."

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