Lifestyles

The necktie -- often dismissed as a badge of corporate conformity or derided as the gift of last resort -- could be mounting something of a comeback.

December, which is National Tie Month, accounts for about 20 percent of annual sales of ties. And whether it's dressing up for a holiday party or buying a gift for a male family member, there are plenty of tasteful choices this season that don't involve battery-operated neckwear that lights up or plays "Jingle Bells."

Sales of men's neckwear declined 6.4 percent in October and November from last year, according to the NDP Group, a marketing and research firm. But the fashion industry, not surprisingly, is viewing the glass as half full.

"Men are looking to dress up again," says Gregg Andrews, fashion director for Nordstrom. "Men are more comfortable admitting that they're concerned about their appearance."

Shoppers at Nordstrom will find a bountiful harvest of neckties by Robert Talbott, Ted Baker, Burberry, Broletto, Canali and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Ties are becoming leaner to match the trend toward narrow lapels, shirt collars and pants. While the standard range for tie widths is between 23/4 inches to 3 1/2 inches, they can be as narrow as 2 inches, Andrews says.

Ties often are worn without suits, often as a substitute for a blazer or vest as the "third piece" that turns a shirt and pants into a complete outfit.

A younger generation seems to have discovered the versatility of the tie. Disney pop idols and Grammy nominees the Jonas Brothers affect the look of dapper young lords with their neckties and ascots.

"Every time you see them, they're wearing a tie," Andrews says. "They're not wearing a tie the way their dad wore a tie, but they're wearing a tie."

Other trend-setters include rapper Jay Z and President-elect Barack Obama, whose iridescent deep sapphire knots are likely to usher in a blue period among fashion designers.

Ties were eclipsed by the casual Fridays plague and the dressing down of America associated with the dot.com boom of the '90s.

The necktie has survived such onslaughts before. In the '60s, those awful collarless "river driver" shirts favored by the likes of Paul McCartney drove ties inland from the coasts to middle America. They stormed back in the '70s from an unlikely source on punk rockers Johnny Rotten and Clash lead singer Joe Strummer. The skinny tie became the default look of New Wave bands who followed in their wake.

In the '80s, the red and yellow power ties worn with suspenders, came to represent Wall street excess.

"Obviously, on Wall Street and in certain industries like law and banking, ties are required," says Daniel Billett, men's fashion and grooming expert at About.com. "Outside of that, ties are becoming more of a fashion accessory. David Beckham wears skinny black ties inside of his shirt so it almost looks like a necklace. It's becoming more of an accessory, something more playful."

The tie's change in status from required to optional means that wearing one can set you apart from the crowd, says Michele Casper, spokesperson for Land's End.

"It's an opportunity for men to choose to wear a tie instead of having to wear a tie," she says.

In these tough economic times, wearing a tie also can convey credibility and commitment, particularly in the workplace.

A popular seller at Land's End is their $49 knit silk tie. It's narrower, at 23/4 inches wide, and features a square end and a textured surface. Unlike the glossier finished ties, it can be worn with khakis or jeans and a button-down shirt, Casper says.

While cloth neckwear was worn by some Romans and Chinese emperors as early are 200 B.C., the tie is thought to have originated in the 17th century in the court of Louis XIV of France. The monarch received Croatian mercenaries and was impressed with the silk scarves they wore around their necks. They were dubbed cravat, a French derivation of "croat" or "Croatian." The fashion spread to England, where dandies and aristocrats took it up.

Entrepreneur Mike Dolan is president of Smithfield Street productions, a film company in Greentree that has shot several movies here. Despite working in an industry that where even executives wear baseball caps, Dolan, 29, keeps neckties in his wardrobe.

"Depending upon the person and the situation, the tie's appropriate sometimes and it's not necessary other times," he says.

He favors light blue ties, but that hardly limits his choices. For example, he'll wear a tie with a subtle matte finish to a business meeting. On a night out, he might wear a tie with more of a sheen. He also can vary the knot, tying a double Windsor or the more popular four-in-hand.

"I went to Central Catholic so I had to wear a tie all my life," he says.

TIE TIPS

A tie is seldom just a tie, Nemo Turner is director for the Protocol Institute, a Montreal-based organization that conducts seminars on business dress, protocol and etiquette.

"People will judge you by your tie," he says. "It creates credibility, it creates status. It's only a piece of cloth, but it has a lot of symbolism in the world today."

Here are tips from Turner and from Michele Casper, spokesperson for Land's End and Daniel Billett, men's fashion and grooming expert at About.com.

Mix it up: A tie and a pocket square or handkerchief should be identical colors, Turner says. Many people buy a matching tie and handkerchief set thinking they should wear them both at the same time. "A blue tie with white polka dots could have a blue handkerchief," he says. "Or if your tie is solid blue you could have a blue handkerchief with polka dots."

Knot on your life: When removing a tie, unravel it step by step instead of pulling on it or slipping it over your head. Don't return your tie to the closet with the knot still in it. "You need to let the tie breathe," Turner says.

Coordinate color with your skin tone: "If you have a lot of pink tones in your skin you don't want to wear a pink or red tie," says Billett. "It'll make you look even pinker. If you've got pink tones to your skin you probably want to wear a cooler color (blue, green, brown)." A knowledgeable salesperson can help here. Yellow is a terrible color for most people, he notes.

Clean break: Be cautious when sending out your good ties to be dry cleaned. While they may be able to remove that stubborn red wine stain, they may also press the tie, which can flatten it beyond repair. Turner suggests sending them an old tie first to see how they clean it.

Gift tips: When you care enough to buy the best, look for a seven fold tie. They're made from a single piece of cloth that is folded seven times within itself. Mass produced models usually are sewn together. "Look at any tie," Turner says. "When you turn it inside out, there's a lining with a different color. The seven fold ties have much more bulk and when you make a knot it really sits well."

Be bold: Many men match their shirts and ties too closely. "Wearing a pattern on pattern is a very cool thing to do," Billett says. "I think guys are afraid to wear a diagonal-striped tie with a striped shirt. If the stripe on the shirt is subtle, I think guys can get away with it."

But not too bold: Remember that ties, like your date, are not supposed to call too much attention to themselves. Those who want to stretch their dollar might choose more conservative ties in colors of navy, burgundy, hunter green, red or gold, says Casper. They can be worn with more shirt and suit combinations. "Usually the more simplistic the tie pattern, the easier it is to wear," Casper says. "If you have a tie that has a lot of movement, a lot of pattern, a lot of color, it's harder to wear."

No hitting below the belt: The tip of the tie should line up directly with the belt buckle, and never above or below the belt.

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