Lifestyles

Open and airy, with white shutters on the windows, an indoor palm tree here and there and the vibrant colors of the Caribbean, Bahama Breeze restaurant in Robinson Town Centre beckons diners with warm, tantalizing aromas and island music even before they can get out of their cars. It's meant to be an oasis -- an escape from the storms of everyday life, says managing chef John Michael Brown, and a way for people to discover the flair of Caribbean fare.

Open since March 2004, Bahama Breeze is one of a chain of 32 restaurants operating under Darden Restaurants Inc. of Orlando, Fla., the world's largest casual dining company, which also owns and operates Red Lobster, Olive Garden and Smokey Bones. However, the Robinson location differs from the norm, says Brown -- it's a prototype that's laid out differently from the others. If the concept works, there will be similar new ones, maybe more than 100, popping up nationwide.

"The dining room area is more open," he says. "The others have sections, and you can't see everybody."

There's an open kitchen -- standard for Bahama Breeze -- and a deck outside has seating for al fresco dining during warm weather.

Bahama Breeze officials describe their food as "bold, flavorful and familiar," not hot and spicy.

"You can find things you love and like on the menu -- with a twist," says Brown. "For example, we serve ribs with a guava barbecue sauce, just a splash of the Caribbean. We can make it hot and spicy, if you want, but we do it with freshness. If you use Tabasco, you will get heat at the front of your tongue. But with fresh food and the right amount of spices, you'll feel it in the back of your mouth."

Appetizers include Island Onion Rings, thick cut and coconut breaded with chile-horseradish and citrus-mustard dipping sauces; Tostones with Chicken, thick slices of home-fried plantains layered with chicken, sweet peppers, mushrooms, onions and cheese, topped with fresh tomato salsa; and Golden Fried Calamari, topped with sofrito, a warm saute of tomatoes, sweet peppers, onions and chorizo.

At dinner, Brown says, the favorite of the house is Almond Crusted Tilapia; other popular items are Jerk Chicken Pasta -- sliced jerk-seasoned chicken breast, fresh asparagus and mushrooms tossed in a rich parmesan-herb cream sauce with bow-tie pasta -- and the West Indies Ribs in guava sauce. Diners also can choose from among three fresh fish selections, which can each be prepared five different ways.

Adventuresome eaters might try the Bahamian Conch Chowder, Cuban Sandwich, Bahamian-Grilled Chicken Kebabs or the Island Teriyaki Steak. For folks who want their taste buds to stay stateside, there is New York Strip Steak or Center-Cut Filet Mignon, both served with garlic mashed potatoes and fresh steamed broccoli, or a Wood-Grilled Angus Burger with a choice of toppings and cheese.

The restaurant is open for lunch, featuring all of the samplers, soups, side salads, entree salads and desserts from its dinner menu, in addition to combos and a Barbecue Chicken Flatbread with a choice of salad.

Desserts are made daily, from scratch, on the premises. Patrons can dig into Chocolate Island -- rich chocolate mousse on a fudge brownie in milk chocolate sauce and vanilla bean anglaise; Dulce de Leche Cheesecake; and deep-dish Rebecca's Key Lime pie, with a portion big enough for two to share.

Brown has worked in many restaurants owned by Darden, and he hopes that the success of Robinson's Bahama Breeze will take him back home to southern California, where the company hopes to expand.

"My future is in my hands," he says. "Business is great."

I>Bahama Breeze, 6100 Robinson Centre Drive, Robinson, is open from 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays and 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Details: 412-788-5790.

Creole Baked Goat Cheese in Roasted Red Pepper Cups

Pittsburgh Bahama Breeze managing chef John Michael Brown recommends cutting the pepper cups into wedges for serving for the full experience of eating the filling with the sweet vegetable.

• Fresh tomato salsa, for serving

For the roasted red pepper cups:

• 1 medium-size red bell pepper
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the garlic crouton rounds:

• 1/2 loaf Cuban bread or French baguette
• 4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
• 1 clove fresh garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

For the filling:

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic
• 1/4 cup diced sweet onion (1/4-inch pieces)
• 4 ounces fresh chevre goat cheese
• 1 vine-ripened roma tomato, seeded and diced
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
• 1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

To prepare the roasted red pepper cups: Cut the red pepper in half to form a top and bottom (see Photo A). Remove and discard the seeds and trim the stem to allow the top half of the pepper cups to stand up.

Rub the inside of the pepper cups with olive oil and season them lightly with salt and black pepper. Place them in a pie plate, cut side up, and bake for 5 minutes. During this roasting step, the pepper will be just slightly softened. The final cooking will take place after the cups are stuffed.

Allow the cups to cool upside down to allow the excess juice to drain out prior to filling with the goat cheese mixture. Set aside.

Maintain the oven temperature.

To make the garlic crouton rounds: Cut the bread crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. You should have 16 pieces. Set aside.

In a small mixing bowl, blend the butter, garlic and parsley until thoroughly mixed. Spread the top and bottom of each slice of bread with about 1/2 teaspoon of the garlic butter on each side (Photo B). Place the croutons on a cookie sheet. Set aside.

To make the filling: Heat the olive oil in a medium-size saute pan over medium heat, then add the garlic and onion. Saute just until the onion becomes translucent. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Transfer the onion-garlic mixture to a mixing bowl and add the goat cheese, tomato, cilantro, parsley and hot pepper sauce (Photo C). Mix, using a rubber spatula, to thoroughly blend. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

To assemble: Using an ice cream scoop or large spoon, fill the roasted red pepper cups with the goat cheese mixture (Photo D) and bake for 10 minutes. Place the Garlic Crouton Rounds in the oven and bake for 5 minutes more.

Remove from the oven and transfer the pepper cups to the edge of a serving platter. "Shingle" the baked croutons beside the pepper cups (Photo E). Serve with fresh tomato salsa on the side.

Makes 2-4 servings.

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