Lifestyles

That seems to be coming true for Marc Alfano, chef and co-owner of Alfano's at The Quail restaurant, in North Strabane, Washington County. He and his wife, Christina, were just about to relocate to Maui, Hawaii, when fate hit home.

"At the last minute, a family member told us about a place in Washington (Pa.), and we opened up a deli and catering service there in January 2003," says Christina Alfano. Simply called Alfano's, the business -- along North Main Street -- picked up speed quickly, drawing loyal customers.

The shop's daily menu included simple, fresh items such as soup, salads, sandwiches and wraps. Chef Alfano -- with a degree from the International Culinary Academy in Pittsburgh -- ventured beyond luncheon fare by offering upscale selections to catering clients.

Now the couple has the best of both worlds at their new restaurant -- just a little over a year old -- in an 1837 restored mansion just off Route 19. With cozy dining rooms in what once were sitting rooms, a breakfast nook and bedrooms, Alfano's at The Quail, featuring Greek Revival architecture, is becoming a destination for gourmets.

At first, the couple served dinner only, but in June they moved their Washington deli to the mansion's former carriage house-smokehouse, and offered lunch. In November, Alfano's Carriage House -- much more casual than the main house -- began staying open in the evening for dinner, too. And as many as 10 diners can watch the kitchen staff at work from a VIP nook where Marc Alfano serves a tailored menu of petite courses for $100 per person.

Alfano's is among The Shoppes at Quail Acres. The land and mansion, formerly owned by several generations of a family named Quail, are now in the hands of Washington County entrepreneur Jerry Polen. Outbuildings house a variety of specialty boutiques, from a sales room for C.T. Miller Vineyards, to designer home accessories, to a candle and gift store.

The mansion is thought to have been a part of the Underground Railroad, says Christina Alfano, pointing out peepholes at the bottom of stairway doors where slaves seeking freedom might have hidden from authorities.

She works the front of the house, having been involved in the food business since she was 13 years old.

"A neighbor owned a catering business, and I helped them," she says. "I fell in love with it. I worked all through high school and college." The Alfanos say they are grateful for the support of their families -- the chef's brother, Bill West, a general contractor, constructed the 1,400-square-foot kitchen, based on Marc Alfano's designs -- and are determined to build their business slowly and steadily.

Chef Alfano describes his cuisine as Pan-European -- "All around the world, but based on European techniques." The menu changes daily, according to what's fresh. Favorite entrees are halibut, pumpkin tortellini, lamb and Delmonico steak, and fresh fish and seafood are available. The bread and desserts are made in-house and vary according to the chef's whims, moods and imagination.

"Our menu isn't anything like the one we started with," says the chef, who has worked at The Hartwood Restaurant, Cala Lily Cafe, Bocconcino and Claudio's. "I try to do dishes nobody else does, at least locally."

He offers seasonal and holiday twists and has been praised by critics for an appetizer called Ahi Poke Rolls, featuring sushi-grade tuna wrapped in a won-ton skin and fried in deep fat.

Alfano's offers wine dinners twice per month, and the bar -- located in the house's former pantry closet -- specializes in upscale drinks. The Quail House Martini features a blend of pomegranate liqueur, Cointreau and Grey Goose vodka, and celebrants can choose from three champagne cocktails.

Alfano's at The Quail, 1445 Washington Road, North Strabane (at The Shoppes at Quail Acres), is open for dinner (at the mansion) from 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. Alfano's Carriage House is open for lunch from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, and for dinner until 9 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays. Details: 724-229-2777.

Ginger Tuna with Saffron Risotto

Executive chef/owner Marc Alfano serves this dish with lemony saffron risotto -- a complement to the fish sauce -- and roasted asparagus. Choose sushi-grade yellowfin tuna steaks.

• 4 yellowfin tuna steaks (8 ounces each, 1-inch thick)
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, divided
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 tablespoons butter, divided
• 3 tablespoons chopped shallots
• 1 tablespoon grated fresh gingerroot
• 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
• 1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 2 tablespoons chopped Italian (flatleaf) parsley
• Saffron Risotto (recipe follows), for serving
• Roasted asparagus spears, for serving

Sprinkle the tuna with 1/4 teaspoon salt and the black pepper. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat until hot, then add the oil. The oil is hot enough when it forms a film over the bottom of the pan and ripples.

Add the tuna steaks and cook for 2 minutes per side (see Photo A). Do not try to lift the tuna from the pan as it sears -- let it brown undisturbed until it easily releases from the skillet as you turn it over. The steaks should be well browned on the outside but still raw on the inside. Transfer to a plate and cover with foil or plastic wrap. The fish will continue cooking. Set aside.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in the same pan used to brown the fish and set it over high heat. In this order, stirring after each addition, add the shallots, ginger, lemon zest, crushed red pepper and garlic. Let cook for 1 minute. Stir in the wine.

Add the parsley and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook until reduced by half (Photo B). Remove the pan from the heat and add the remaining 3 tablespoons butter in little pieces. Stir until the butter is melted and the sauce is thickened and shiny.

To plate: Use an individual souffle dish or stainless-steel ring to make a circle of the risotto in the middle of 4 dinner plates. Arrange the tuna pieces over the risotto (you can slice and fan them). Arrange asparagus spears decoratively on the other side of the risotto. Spoon the sauce over the fish (Photo C).

Makes 4 servings.

Saffron Risotto

• 4 cups chicken stock
• 1 3/4 ounces butter (about 3{ 1/2} tablespoons)
• 1 onion, finely diced
• 15 saffron threads
• 1 1/4 cups rice for risotto, such as arborio
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 3/4 cup grated romano cheese
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Place the chicken stock in a saucepan over medium-high heat. When almost boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer.

Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and saffron and saute until the onion is soft and transparent.

Add the rice and stir for 1 minute, or until the grains are glossy and well coated in the buttery saffron. Add 1 cup hot stock; simmer and stir until the liquid is absorbed. Continue to add the stock a bit at a time, stirring constantly, until the stock is absorbed and the rice is cooked al dente but still firm to the bite.

Fold the lemon juice and romano cheese through the risotto and season with sea salt and black pepper.

Makes 4 servings.

• Most Read
• Most E-mailed
• Latest News