Lifestyles

When life got too short for Tim Sheerer and his wife, Colleen, he traded his business suit for an apron, and investment banking for an Italian family restaurant.

The hustle and bustle of New York City high finance has been replaced with cozy booths and tables where the Sheerers entertain hundreds of people each day, serving pizza, pasta, salads, soups and signature dishes of chicken, seafood, veal and eggplant.

It was a combination of the World Trade Center attacks, turning 40 years old, and his father's quadruple bypass that caused Tim Sheerer to stop in his jet-setting tracks in 2001 and ponder his life.

"Family is the most important thing," he says.

The Sheerers and their four children pulled up their roots in New Jersey and moved to western Pennsylvania.

Their establishment -- La Cappella Italian Restaurant at Pittsburgh's Waterworks Mall, near Aspinwall -- is celebrating nearly three years in business. It opened under the Rotelli franchise name, but became independent in February 2006.

"We renamed it La Cappella because that means 'chapel' in Italian," says Colleen Sheerer, "and Tim's from Fox Chapel."

The Sheerers emphasize family, posting photos of their regular diners and sponsoring fundraisers for local sports teams and schools. Chances are good that you'll find a family member on the premises, too: Three Sheerer children -- Molly, 16; Kelly, 14; and Johnny, 13 -- have jobs busing tables or welcoming patrons. The youngest -- Patrick, 11 -- is eagerly awaiting his turn, says his mother, who patrons call "the ambassador" because she is so good at remembering names and faces.

At first, the Sheerers did most of the work, from cooking to waiting to bartending, but a reliable staff and steady clientele now allow them to better balance work and family. Chef Craig Smith, a graduate of the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute and former owner of American Harvest Catering, in Blawnox, has been in charge of the kitchen since last October, and develops specials and new menu items with Tim Sheerer.

Smith, a West View native who also has worked at Outback Steakhouse, Chili's Grill & Bar, Rico's Restaurant and Luma Restaurant, says his heart belongs to Pittsburgh.

"I just love the changing of the seasons," he says. "And I'm a huge Steelers and Penguins fan."

His passion, however, is cooking.

"When I was growing up," Smith says, "everyone was watching 'Sesame Street,' and I was watching 'Yan Can Cook.'"

Specialties include stuffed eggplant, linguine with wild mushroom ragu, and angel hair Timballo -- the last featuring pasta with mushrooms, artichokes, fresh basil and sun-dried tomatoes in a garlic white wine sauce.

The new menu features homemade Chesapeake crab cakes, Caribbean-style tilapia, filet mignon, stuffed mushrooms, an Oriental crunch salad, and Steak Colleen, La Cappella's version of Steak Diane.

"We're looking to upscale our menu and work on presentation," says Tim Sheerer. "Craig is perfect for that."

Fried zucchini and calamari, stuffed banana peppers and pepperoni rolls are among the appetizers. Italian wedding soup is a menu staple, and patrons can mix and match pastas and sauces to their liking, with options such as bacon, broccoli, sauteed mushrooms, grilled chicken, shrimp and salmon as add-ins. There are baked pasta dishes, too: twice-baked penne, manicotti, cheese ravioli, lasagna with meat sauce, and three-cheese pasta.

Chicken breasts are prepared marsala- and Romano-style, among others, as are veal cutlets. Pizzas can be plain or fancy -- La Cappella offers 25 different toppings as well as specialty pies, including white pizza, margarita, spicy arrabiata, and chicken club. Subs, wraps and calzones are available.

Tim Sheerer is home with his children in the morning and when they come home from school, says his wife. He also has time to pursue another love -- coaching youngsters' softball and basketball teams -- in shirt sleeves instead of a suit.

"I like the flexibility," he says.

La Cappella Italian Restaurant, Waterworks Mall, near Aspinwall, is open from noon-9 p.m. Sundays and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Details: 412-449-0200.

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Stuffed Veal Milanese

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This dish is featured on La Cappella's new menu.

• 1 veal leg cutlet, about 6 ounces
• 5 dried tomatoes, soaked in water until soft, drained, julienned
• 5 ounces fresh baby spinach
• 4 ounces feta cheese
• 5 to 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• Salt and ground white pepper, to taste
• All-purpose flour, for breading
• Beaten egg, for breading
• Japanese bread crumbs (panko), for breading
• 2 ounces drained capers
• 2 ounces diced ripe tomatoes
• 1 cup white wine
• 3 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 3 tablespoons butter, cut in small pieces

Heat the oven to 425 degrees.

Place the veal on a work surface and flatten or pound gently into a rough rectangle until about 1/16-inch thick. Set aside.

Prepare the filling: Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet. Add the dried tomato pieces and saute for about 1 minute. Add the spinach and saute until wilted, then add the cheese (see Photo 1). Heat, stirring, just until mixed. Season with salt and white pepper. Remove from the heat.

In a separate skillet, heat 2 or 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil over medium heat until hot. Meanwhile, lay the veal so a short side faces you. Place the filling at the bottom of the meat, then roll up like a jellyroll (Photo 2), tucking in the sides as you roll. Dredge the roll in flour, then the egg and finish by coating with the Japanese bread crumbs.

Add the veal roll to the hot oil in the skillet. Brown on all sides, turning with tongs so you don't pierce the meat (Photo 3), then transfer to an oven-proof pan and finish cooking in the oven, for 5-7 minutes. The veal is done when an instant-read meat thermometer registers 165 degrees when placed in the center. Remove from the oven and set aside.

Prepare the sauce: Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet. Add the capers and tomatoes; stir to combine. Splash in the wine, bring the mixture to a simmer and reduce by half (Photo 4). Add the heavy cream, heat until bubbly and season with salt and white pepper. Toss in the butter pieces; stir well until the sauce is creamy. Place the veal roll on a dinner plate, then cover with the sauce (Photo 5).

Makes 1 serving.

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