'Modern Indian Cooking' makes ethnic cuisine attainable
Authors: Hari Nayak and Vikas Khanna
Publisher: Silverback Books, $29.95
Alice T. Carter is the theater critic for the Tribune-Review. She can be reached via e-mail or 412-320-7808.
They're discouraged by heavy sauces, hard-to-find ingredients that they might use only once -- such as tamarind paste or asafetida -- and recipes best suited to multi-generational households blessed with aunts, daughters-in-law and cousins to help with the chopping and cooking.
Nayak knows this, because he's one of them.
"I love Indian food, but I don't have time to make it with all those elaborate ingredients," says Nayak, who works as a culinary consultant to big corporations such as Whole Foods and Sodexho USA and is the executive pastry chef at Halo Fete in Princeton, N.J.
That's one of the reasons that he and Vikas Khanna created "Modern Indian Cooking" (Silverback Books, $29.95). The 192-page cookbook offers their take on Indian cuisine for contemporary cooks and was developed for use by home cooks and professional chefs.
Colorful, appetite-inducing photographs appear on every page.
"The food styling takes longer than to create the recipes," Nayak says. But it's worthwhile, he says. "I like books with pictures so you can eat with your eyes."
Recipes are clear and easy to follow and were developed from dishes Nayak cooks for his friends and family. The resulting dishes retain the flavors and fragrances of Indian cooking, but are lighter and easier to prepare.
"I want people not to be afraid of Indian cooking and not to be afraid to create their own recipes, to get inspired by these," he says.
Nayak and Khanna both learned to cook on the Indian sub-continent where they were both born -- Nayak in Udupi, a town on the southern coast of India three hours south of Bombay, and Khanna in Amritsar, on the border of Pakistan and India.
Both studied at the Culinary Institute of America, and both have worked for a variety of corporate and restaurant kitchens in the United States.
They employ staples from the traditional Indian spice shelf such as cumin, cinnamon, cardamom and saffron. But they also borrow flavors from other cultures, such as rosemary, sage and cilantro.
Some dishes -- Yellow Pear and Cherry Tomato Salad, Spicy Red Lentils or Sweet Yogurt Sundae With Saffron and Pistachios -- require minimal preparation.
There's an emphasis on fresh herbs, vegetables and fruits, and recipes call for vegetable oils rather than butter or ghee. With a few exceptions, the ingredients can be found on the shelves of any large supermarket.
Nayak loves to explore the tastes and flavors of different ethnic cuisines.
"These are not your typical Indian recipes," he says. "They remind you of Indian flavors but are easier and more acceptable."
The result is recipes like the cumin- and red chile-flavored Pan Roasted Spiced Corn, which would be equally at home at a Mexican fiesta, or the Asian-accented stir-fried Konkan Chili Prawns that incorporate soy sauce.
They're dishes unlikely to turn up on the menu of the traditional Indian restaurant.
"That's why we call it the next generation of Indian cooking," Nayak says. "As the world is getting smaller, people everywhere are getting blended in together."
Pan Roasted Spiced Corn
This is also excellent when served warm as a side dish with grilled chicken, pork or fish.
• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
• 2 dried red chiles
• 1 pound frozen corn, thawed
• 2 tablespoons corn oil
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• Salt, to taste
• 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
• 3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped
• Mixed baby greens
In a small nonstick skillet, dry-roast the cumin seeds, fennel and chiles over medium heat, stirring and shaking the skillet until the spices are fragrant and a few shades darker, for about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, let cool and grind finely with a mortar and pestle or in a spice grinder.
Place the corn in a nonstick skillet and stir over medium-high heat until the water evaporates. Transfer to a bowl.
In the same skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat and cook the onion, stirring until golden, for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the corn, roasted spices and salt, and cook until the corn is golden brown, for 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the pepper and cilantro, and cook for about 2 minutes. Cool and serve over mixed baby greens.
Makes 4 servings.
Crispy Pan Fried Shrimp
with Tamarind Glaze
• 1 pound medium-size fresh shrimp, cleaned, shelled and de-veined
• 1 teaspoon ginger, minced
• 4 teaspoons garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 tablespoon tamarind paste
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• Salt, to taste
• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 2 tablespoons Thai basil, chopped
Using a clean kitchen towel, pat dry the shrimp and set aside. Mix the ginger and the garlic with the cumin powder. Add the tamarind paste, cayenne pepper, turmeric powder, flour and salt. Blend 2 tablespoons of oil into the mixture. Transfer to a bowl, add the shrimp, and toss well to coat evenly; cover and refrigerate for about 2 hours for best results.
Heat the remaining oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the marinated shrimp and cook for a minute on high heat. Turn over the shrimp, and cook for another minute. Reduce the heat, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, turning the shrimp occasionally for uniform cooking. Sprinkle with lemon juice and Thai basil, and serve hot.
Makes 6 servings.
Yellow Pear and Cherry Tomato
Salad with Cumin
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons red onion, minced
• 2 teaspoons honey
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• Salt, to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and coarsely ground
• 2 cups yellow pear tomatoes, halved
• 1 cup red cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1 cup orange cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped.
In a small bowl, combine the lemon juice, red onion, honey, olive oil, salt, red pepper flakes and cumin. Whisk until well blended.
In a large salad bowl, toss together all the tomatoes. Pour the dressing on top, add the chopped basil and toss gently to mix well. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.
Baby Beets and Carrots
with Curry Leaves
• 1 pound red and yellow beets
• 1/2 pound baby carrots, peeled
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 8 fresh or frozen curry leaves
• 2 tablespoons green chiles, seeded and minced
• 3 tablespoons shallots, minced
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• Salt, to taste
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
If the beet greens are still attached, cut them off, leaving about 1 inch of stem intact. In a large pot, bring 1 inch of water to a boil. Add the unpeeled beets, cover, and cook until tender, for 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the pot and let them stand until cool enough to handle, then peel and cut them into quarters. Set aside and keep warm.
Cook the baby carrots the same as the beets. (If the baby carrots are varied sizes, cut the larger ones into halves or thirds for even cooking). Remove from the pot and set aside.
Place a pan over medium-high heat. Add the oil, and when it is hot, add the curry leaves, minced chiles and shallots. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the beets and carrots and stir, then add the vinegar, salt and sugar, and stir well. Raise the heat to high, and stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes.
Remove from the heat and taste for seasoning. Transfer to a serving dish; serve hot or at room temperature.
Makes 4 servings.
Mustard Potatoes With Dill
• 1 pound potatoes, diced
• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 5 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
• 2 dried red chiles, whole
• 1 tablespoon Madras curry powder
• 6 cups dill, rinsed and chopped
• Salt, to taste
Boil the potatoes in a saucepan, over medium-high heat. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes or until just tender. Drain well.
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium high heat. Add the garlic and fry for 30 seconds. Add the mustard seeds and the whole chiles, cover and briefly allow the seeds to pop. Stir in the potatoes with the curry powder, and saute until fragrant. Add the dill, cover and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Season with salt and serve hot.
Makes 6 servings.
Spicy Red Lentils
• 1 cup red lentils, rinsed and drained
• 4 cups water
• 1/4 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt, to taste
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1/2 tablespoon ginger, minced
• 1/2 tablespoon garlic, minced
• 1 fresh green chile, minced
• 1 tablespoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon paprika
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped
• 3 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
In a sauce pan over high heat, combine the lentils, water, turmeric, bay leaf and salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the lentil, stirring occasionally and simmer until the lentils are tender but still firm, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain.
In a small frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, ginger, garlic, green chile, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, paprika and sugar. Reduce the heat to low, and cook until fragrant, for about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
In a large bowl, combine the lentils and the spice mixture; toss gently to mix. Stir in the cilantro and mint. Stir in the lemon juice, and serve immediately.
Makes 6 servings.
Stir Fry Chicken
With Cumin and Peppers
• 1 pound boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 tablespoon ginger, minced
• 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds, roasted and ground
• 2 tablespoons malt vinegar
• 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• Salt, to taste
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1/2 cup plain yogurt, whisked until smooth
• 1 large onion, diced
• 1 large red bell pepper, diced
Place the chicken in a large bowl. Add the ginger, garlic, ground cumin seeds, vinegar, black pepper and salt, and mix, making sure all the pieces are well covered with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap, and marinate in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours.
Heat the oil in a medium, nonstick skillet and add the cumin seeds; they should sizzle upon contact with the hot oil. Quickly add the chicken with all the marinade and cook, turning as needed, until lightly golden on all sides, for about 5 minutes.
Add the yogurt, stirring constantly to prevent it from curdling, then mix in the onion and bell pepper, and cook until all the juices evaporate and the chicken is rich golden in color and tender, for about 10 to 15 minutes.
Makes 4 servings.
Konkan Chili Prawns
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon, ginger, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2 shallots, chopped
• 10 curry leaves
• 36 medium prawns, peeled and de-veined
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons dry red chiles, chopped
• 2 tablespoons cilantro, minced
• 1/4 cup low-fat yogurt, whipped until smooth
• Salt, to taste
• 2 tablespoons scallions, chopped
Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or very large saute pan over very high heat until very hot. Add the ginger, garlic, shallots and curry leaves, and saute for 1 minute.
Add the prawns, and cook just until they start to turn pink, for 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the soy sauce, lemon juice, chiles and cilantro, and cook, stirring often, for 2 minutes longer.
Add the yogurt, and cook until the prawns are just cooked through.
Season with salt. Serve warm, garnished with chopped scallions.
Makes 6 servings.
Sweet Yogurt Sundae
with Saffron and Pistachios
• 4 cups plain yogurt
• 1 teaspoon saffron strands
• 1/3 cup whole milk
• 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 cup honey
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped pistachios, chopped
Line a large sieve or colander with cheesecloth. Wet the cloth with water, then place the sieve or colander over a bowl. Place the yogurt in the sieve to drain for 2 to 3 hours in the refrigerator. Discard the whey.
Turn the yogurt into a bowl and set aside.
Lightly toast the saffron strands in a small, dry skillet over medium heat, until brittle. Add the milk and cardamom and nutmeg. Remove from the heat, and stir in the honey until dissolved.
Whisk the mixture into the yogurt. Use a ladle to pour the yogurt into sundae cups or bowls. Top with nuts, and serve chilled.
Makes 8 small servings.
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