Lifestyles

It's springtime, and I am thinking about brighter flavors to go along with the longer days. A favorite dish that takes little time with big results is this seafood stew. Always a hit with any size crowd, it features shrimp and scallops bathed in a Mediterranean-style broth fragrant with fennel and orange.

I have found that bottled clam juice works nicely in this dish as a backdrop for all of the accompanying flavors -- and it's much quicker than cooking up a seafood stock from scratch. The base of the stew can be made ahead and then finished at the last minute, making this an excellent choice for entertaining.

I suppose it is my French training that comes into play when I make a fish stew. I seem to gravitate to adding extra flavor through a variety of aioli, or garlic-scented mayonnaise condiments. This Mediterranean-influenced aioli is scented with lemon rind and freshly grated parmesan cheese. While some might argue that I am gilding the lily, I find that the creamy aioli dolloped upon a crisp French bread slice and arranged on top of the stew is a delicious home run. Swirled throughout the soup, each bite is a surprise.

Begin the meal with a mixed green salad with some colorful vegetables such as beets or roasted peppers. Serve the soup in shallow bowls so you have more room for the aioli toasts. For dessert, try an apple tart or baked apples.

I like to serve an assertive zinfandel with stew; you can use the same wine for cooking and drinking.

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Seafood Stew with Garlic Toasts and Lemon Parmesan Aioli

For a variation, substitute your favorite fish, such as halibut or sea bass.

Select fresh scallops that are the same size as the shrimp so they cook the same amount of time as the shrimp. Have your fishmonger peel and de-vein the shrimp, leaving the tail on for a pretty presentation.

This recipe can be doubled for a larger crowd.

� 2 tablespoons olive oil

� 1 medium-size onion, finely chopped

� 1 medium-size carrot, peeled and finely chopped

� 1 medium-size fennel bulb, trimmed, cored, and finely chopped

� 4 cloves garlic, minced

� 1 1/2 cups dry red wine, such as zinfandel

� 1 cup bottled clam juice, or as needed

� 1/2 cup water

� 1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes, with their juice

� 1/2 teaspoon anchovy paste

� 2-inch-long strip of orange peel

� Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

� 12 large shrimp, peeled, with tails left on, and deveined

� 12 medium-size to large scallops

� 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives, for garnish

For the toasts:

� 12 slices French bread

� 1 clove garlic, sliced in half

� Olive oil cooking spray

For the aioli:

� 1/4 cup mayonnaise

� 2 cloves garlic, minced

� 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

� 1 teaspoon anchovy paste

� 2 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese

� White pepper, to taste

In a medium-size soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot and fennel, and saute, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until softened. Add the 4 cloves minced garlic and saute for another minute. Add the wine, clam juice, water, tomatoes, anchovy paste, orange peel, and salt and pepper and simmer, partially covered, over medium-low heat for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the toasts: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Rub the garlic clove on one side of each slice of bread and very lightly coat the bread with olive oil cooking spray. Place the bread on a baking sheet and toast for 7 to 10 minutes, or until lightly browned. Remove and set aside.

In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients for the aioli and mix to blend. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if desired. Set aside.

When the soup base is cooked, remove the orange peel, and adjust seasonings, if desired. With a hand blender, blend until it is roughly pureed, with some texture remaining. Or transfer to a regular blender, in batches, and roughly puree, then return to the pot. If the soup base is too thick, add a bit more water or clam juice.

(At this point, the stew -- which can be made as long as 2 days ahead -- can be covered and refrigerated. Make the toasts the day you will serve the stew.)

Set the pot over medium-high heat, and bring to a simmer. Add the shrimp and scallops and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes, or until just cooked through.

To serve, spread some aioli on each toast. Ladle the stew into soup bowls. (I like to use shallow soup plates for a pretty presentation). Arrange 2 or 3 toasts around the edge of each bowl and dollop a teaspoon of aioli in the center. Garnish with the chopped chives, and serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

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