Lifestyles

Although Morton's Restaurant Group Inc. has its headquarters in Chicago, Pittsburgh is home to its international advertising agency, Elias/Savion, and its national public-relations representative, Matthew Doherty.

The city also is where Morton's new Blue Cheese French Fries -- an instant hit -- were developed, says William Ferron, general manager. The upscale restaurant chain -- celebrating 30 years in business, with 80 international locations -- has updated its classic menu to appeal to a broader market.

The atmosphere and reputation have changed from a dark, club-style place for power dinners to a brighter and more open feeling. Lighter menu choices also are appealing to health-conscious diners. A new bar, 12/21, offers "bites" of crab cakes, mini cheeseburgers, oysters on the half shell and smoked salmon, and Morton's signature shrimp cocktail, with several items priced at $5 during weekday "Power Hours."

Morton's has private boardrooms for meetings and special events that feature cutting-edge electronics, including a 9-foot high-definition television screen, telecommunications equipment and Wi-Fi.

Pittsburgh's Morton's opened 15 years ago.

"The menu is an evolutionary process," says Ferron, at the restaurant for 12 years. "We've still got the steaks and the classics, but we've added a lot of seafood recently."

New to the menu is a cold or hot seafood appetizer platter for two or more: The cold version has Maine lobster, shrimp cocktail, jumbo lump crabmeat, raw oysters and Alaskan king crab legs. The hot appetizer platter features sea scallops wrapped in bacon, crab cakes, Oysters Rockefeller and Shrimp Alexander.

Tuna tartare and sesame-encrusted yellowfin tuna join the restaurant's signature lobster bisque. A double chocolate mousse and carrot cake have been added to the dessert menu to rival the legendary Hot Chocolate Cake.

Executive chef Todd Weiss, a Crafton native and graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, has been running Pittsburgh's kitchen for seven years. He is having fun with another new item, a rich four-cheese macaroni and cheese. He shares that recipe exclusively in today's Cooking Class, as well as the classic Beef Filet Oskar -- bearnaise sauce, croutons, clarified butter and all -- featured in Morton's inaugural cookbook, "Morton's Steak Bible," by co-founder chef Klaus Fritsch with Mary Goodbody (Clarkson Potter/Publishers, $30), published two years ago.

"We'll have a new cookbook out in 2009," Ferron says. "And we're starting a program to benefit the Make-a-Wish Foundation called '30 Wishes for 30 Years' in honor of our 30th anniversary."

Every Sunday, beginning July 6 and running through September, diners can order the Morton's $19.78 Prime Sirloin Burger, which comes with the signature french fries. The longtime lunch item has never before been sold in Pittsburgh, Ferron says, because Downtown Morton's is open only for dinner.

Five dollars of the check will go to Make-a-Wish, which is dedicated to enriching the lives of children with life-threatening medical conditions. A dinner for the organization also is planned later in the year.

Faithful diners should fear not, says Ferron, because Morton's still remains "the destination for prime beef and excellent food, large portions, high training standards and legendary service."

"We have not altered the guest experience," he says. "We know who we are."

Morton's president seeks out employee feedback

When you are serving "the best food anywhere in the world," it's good to have a talk with the boss every once in a while.

That's why Thomas J. Baldwin, chairman, CEO and president of Morton's Restaurant Group Inc., visited recently for a power lunch with staff members and management at Morton's The Steakhouse Pittsburgh, Downtown.

"I'm looking for feedback from the staff," he says. "The menu items, what do guests want, the evolution of the menu -- all of that is a direct result of listening to employees."

He admits that Morton's has standards not short of "perfection," and if a diner's experience is less than that, a silent alarm goes off from the front of the house to the kitchen staff.

"We work to get continually better. It gets harder to exceed our expectations," he says.

"We think 'one guest at a time' at each restaurant level," says Baldwin, who has been with the Chicago-based chain for 20 years. "Resolving problems is really critical for us. If a guest takes the time to mention (a mistake), the experience still should be perfect in (his or her) eyes at the end of the meal."

Baldwin says Morton's is feeling the current economic squeeze. One problem is that business travelers -- a key market for the steakhouse -- have cut back to save money, yet food costs are rising.

"Our special-occasion business still is very strong -- anniversaries, birthdays and personal usage (organizational meetings) -- and the weekends are good."

Despite the crunch, Morton's will not sacrifice quality, he says.

"We still buy our steaks from Allen Brothers and The Stock Yards, which we've done for 30 years. And the mission hasn't changed -- being the best local steakhouse in every market. We also want to be an active member of the community."

Look for large asparagus spears, because they will best support the crabmeat and look great on top of the filet. This recipe is from "Morton's Steak Bible: Recipes & Lore from the Legendary Steakhouse" by Klaus Fritsch with Mary Goodbody (Clarkson Potter/Publishers, $30).

• 6 cuts filet mignon (8 to 9 ounces each), about 2 inches thick

• Vegetable cooking spray

• Seasoned salt, such as Lawry's

• 12 slices very thin white bread

• Water

• 12 large asparagus spears

• 12 ounces fresh lump crabmeat (2 loosely packed cups)

• 2 1/4 cups Bernaise Sauce, warmed, recipe follows

For the Bernaise Sauce:

• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

• 1 tablespoon dry white wine

• 1 teaspoon dried tarragon

• 1/2 teaspoon chopped shallots

• 2 cups Hollandaise Sauce, recipe follows

• Salt

To prepare the Bernaise Sauce: In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the vinegar, wine, tarragon and shallots. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until enough liquid evaporates so that it barely coats the bottom of the pan.

In the top of a double boiler set over simmering heat, heat the Hollandaise Sauce, whisking to keep it from separating. Add the vinegar mixture and continue whisking. Season to taste with a little salt.

Makes about 2 cups.

For the Filet Oskar: Remove the steaks from the refrigerator and let them rest at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes. Season the filets lightly on both sides with seasoned salt (see Photo 1).

Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400 degrees. Lay the bread slices on a work surface. Using a 3-inch-wide round cookie cutter or water glass, cut out 12 rounds. Transfer the rounds to a baking sheet. Bake, turning once, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the croutons are light golden brown and crisp. Watch them carefully; they brown quickly around the edges. Let cool on wire racks.

Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees. In a large skillet filled about halfway with boiling water and set over medium-high heat, blanch the asparagus spears for 2 to 3 minutes or until fork-tender. Cut each spear in half crosswise and then split each half lengthwise (Photo 2). Lay the split spears in a single layer around the perimeter of a 17- by 11-inch baking pan. Place the crabmeat in the center of the pan. Heat the asparagus and crabmeat in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes, or until heated through. Remove from the oven and cover to keep warm.

Coat a hot grill with vegetable cooking spray. If using a charcoal or gas grill, grill the steaks over direct high heat for about 5 minutes. Turn, using tongs, and grill the other side for about 5 minutes for medium-rare or to the desired doneness. If using the broiler, broil 4 inches from the heat source for 8 minutes. Turn, using tongs, and brother the other side for 7 to 8 minutes for medium-rare or to the desired doneness.

Cut each filet in half against the grain (Photo 3) and cut each portion, cut side up, on a crouton. Put 2 croutons on each serving plate. Put 4 asparagus pieces (2 with tips) on top of each filet half to form a crosshatch design (#). Divide the crab evenly among the plates, resting it on the asparagus. Spoon Bearnaise Sauce over each serving and pass any extra sauce on the side.

Makes 6 servings.

Morton's says this method of making this rich sauce is "as close to foolproof as you can get." Make it shortly before serving, because it does not hold well.

• 4 sticks unsalted butter

• 2 1/2 sticks unsalted margarine

• Water

• 5 large egg yolks

• 1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

• 1/8 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

• Dash of hot pepper sauce

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Prepare the clarified butter: In a medium-size saucepan over medium heat, combine the butter and margarine. Cook for about 5 minutes or until completely melted and simmering gently. Remove from the heat and let stand at room temperature for about 10 minutes, or until the solids settle on the bottom of the pan. Skim the foam off the top and discard.

Carefully pour or ladle the clear liquid butter into a storage container and leave the milk solids in the pan. Discard the solids. Let the butter cool. Refrigerate for as long as 1 week.

Makes about 2 cups.

Prepare the sauce: In the bottom of a double boiler, bring about 2 inches of water to a boil over high heat. The water should not touch the bottom of the top portion of the double boiler. Reduce the heat to medium so that the water is simmering.

Put the egg yolks and 2 tablespoons water in the top of the double boiler and set over the simmering water. Whisk the eggs continuously for 2 to 2 1/2 minutes or until the eggs are thick and foamy and their color lightens. Watch the eggs carefully; they must not scramble and cook. Remove the top of the double boiler from the heat.

In a small saucepan, heat 1 1/2 cups clarified butter over medium-low heat. Very gradually add half of the warm butter to the eggs, whisking constantly. Add 1 tablespoon water and continue to whisk as you add the remaining butter and the sauce emulsifies.

Stir in the lemon juice, Worcestershire and hot pepper sauces, the salt and white pepper. Return the top of the double boiler to the heat over the simmering water, adding more water to the bottom of the boiler if necessary. Cook gently until the sauce registers 110 degrees to 120 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Serve warm.

Makes about 2 cups.

This is one of the latest additions to the menu at Morton's The Steakhouse.

• 12 ounces dried cavatappi or other small hollow, ridged pasta

• Boiling water, to cook pasta

• 1 1/2 teaspoons butter, melted

• 4 tablespoons finely diced yellow onion (1/4 cup)

• 1 1/4 cups heavy cream

• 6 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (about 2 cups)

• 4 ounces cream cheese, cut into small cubes

• 3 ounces parmesan cheese, grated (about 2/3 cup)

• 1 ounce Swiss cheese, grated (about 6 tablespoons)

• 1/2 teaspoon chile paste, such as sambal oelek

• Kosher salt

• 5 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely shredded (about 1 2/3 cups)

• 8 ounces (about 1/2 cup) panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Cook the pasta in boiling water according to package directions until al dente. Drain, but leave a little water on the pasta to keep it moist. Reserve another 1/2 cup pasta water to thin the sauce. Return to the cooking pot and cover to keep warm.

In a medium-size saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and saute the onion for about 1 minute, or until tender. Add the cream and bring to a simmer. Stir in the shredded cheddar, cream cheese, parmesan and Swiss and cook, stirring, until the cheeses melt and are fully incorporated into the cream. Let the sauce reach a simmer and stir in the chile paste. You will have about 2 1/2 cups of sauce.

Remove from the heat and, using an immersion blender or hand-held electric mixer, beat for about 45 seconds until the cheeses and onion are completely blended. The sauce will be thick; thin it with the reserved 1/2 cup pasta water and mix well. Season to taste with salt.

Ladle the sauce over the pasta and mix well, using a rubber spatula. Transfer to a deep 2-quart baking dish and spread the pasta and cheese evenly. Sprinkle the coarsely shredded cheddar over the casserole and sprinkle with the bread crumbs. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until hot and bubbling around the edges (Photo 4). Serve immediately.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

• Most Read
• Most E-mailed
• Latest News