Eclectic eatery serves Greensburg well with creativity, attention to detail
One Eleven
Stephen Hurley/For the Tribune Review
Cuisine: Eclectic contemporary
Hours: Opens at 4 p.m. (closing times vary) Mondays-Saturdays; closed Sundays
Entree price range: $17-$30
Notes: Major credit cards accepted. Reservations recommended.
Location: 113 S. Pennsylvania Ave., Greensburg
Details: 724-420-5711 or Web site
Deb Erdley can be reached via e-mail or at 412-320-7996.
Haven't been to Greensburg in a while? Get ready for a surprise. What was once a lunch spot along South Pennsylvania Avenue, about a block from the courthouse, opened last spring as One Eleven with a decidedly different look.
A group of partners gutted the lunchroom, bought the building next door, tore out a wall, removed suspended ceilings, installed a classic bar and invested a lot of talent and elbow grease. It would be easy to miss this gem that seats about 60, hiding in plain sight among a street of small shops.
The name came from the second building that was merged into the restaurant. Although the address is 113 S. Pennsylvania Ave., the owners opted to name the new eatery for the building it absorbed; hence, One Eleven.
Chef Richard Kurtz, who previously operated the casual Greensburg restaurant Pagnotta and several venues in Indiana state, and chef de cuisine David Sabota have joined forces here to create a menu that begs to be sampled at length. Plans call for seasonal menu changes, with one scheduled for later this month.
This white-tablecloth dining room fills a distinct niche in downtown Greensburg. "We wanted to bring an uptown feel to downtown Greensburg" is how manager Chris Kowach describes it.
The warm earth tones in the dining room prove a thoughtful backdrop for the watercolor prints that grace the walls.
The lights from the wall sconces and the brass chandeliers reflect off the whirling fans on the original stamped-tin ceiling, which was painted a glossy dark brown.
Our only complaint was the noise level. It can get a bit loud in an otherwise-intimate dining room when sound bounces off that ceiling.
The bar area in what was the original lunchroom has a more casual feel. Diners can order entrees there or simply enjoy an appetizer or sandwich while they take in the latest sports on the flat-screen TVs that adorn the back of the bar. Those waiting for a table or just meeting friends can enjoy a drink and conversation on a soft seat in the "sofa" area adjacent to the bar. Both areas were full, as was the dining room, when we visited. Kowach says One Eleven often seats diners until 10 p.m. on weekends.
Not sure what to order here? Chances are your server can help you decide what to sample. Our server was attentive, helpful and knowledgeable in terms of both food and wine. The wine list includes 14 wines by the glass as well as a variety of bottles. We're told the chef oversees wine selections carefully.
All meals at One Eleven are a la carte. Our server suggested the large salads on the menu easily would feed two with dinner, and he was right. The One Eleven Salad ($9), a mix of tender baby greens and crunchy beans served with a tangy cream dressing, satisfied our salad craving. For those with a taste for other dinner salad classics, there is also a Caesar Salad ($7). Make salad a main course with the Beef Tenderloin Salad and Seared Tuna Salad ($17 each).
The salad split was a great suggestion. Even with the smaller salads, we found ourselves carting home large portions of the generous entrees served here.
One Eleven appetizers, like the entrees, come in generous portions. Wild Mushroom Pizetta ($10), a wonderful amalgam of earthy mushrooms, sweet caramelized pearl onions, spinach, savory cheeses and herbs on a pizza crust, could prove a light dinner for two. Polenta with Spicy Jamison Lamb Sausage ($10) and a Creamy Crab Bisque ($7) are among other local specialty appetizers.
While One Eleven entrees include French, Asian and Italian influences, Kowach says the restaurant's fish, flown in fresh daily, is a point of pride. "Our fish is caught one day before you eat it," he boasts, adding that Baked Crab Cakes ($26) have quickly become a local favorite.
Many of the menu offerings, like Italian Flattened Pork Tenderloin ($20) and Gnocchi with Jamison Lamb and Mint Ragu ($18) are One Eleven's special takes on common menu entries. For those who want to stick with classics, there's always Filet Mignon ($30).
We enjoyed Cioppino ($24). The classic tangy fish stew, brimming with mussels, shrimp and fish, had a slightly sweeter taste, thanks to a base of lobster sauce rather than tomatoes, Kowach says.
A plate of Squid Ink Pasta with Colossal Shrimp Fra Diavolo ($23) featured fragrant fresh-shaved cheese on the black noodles swimming in a sea of fiery red sauce with the largest shrimp we've ever seen. The combination proved both eye-catching and flavorful.
Given the attention to detail on other items, we were disappointed with a rather common basket of warm white rolls. On the other hand, passing over bread leaves room for other treats.
Desserts ($5) created on the premises include a Flourless Chocolate Cake with White Chocolate Ganache, Creme Brulee and, special for the season, Pumpkin Cheesecake.
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