Lifestyles

It doesn't take a historian to spot Bedford's charm. Located in the bed-and-breakfast belt of South Central Pennsylvania, the town has managed to retain much of its rustic character and historical significance.

"There's not a lot of neon," says Dennis Tice, executive director of the Bedford County Visitors Bureau. "Much of the town dates back to the 1800s and early 1900s. The folks that are coming here are looking to get away to a more rural setting."

Visitors can stay at numerous bed-and-breakfasts, including Ora Lee's Golden Eagle Inn, Spring Meadow Guest House, Chancellor's House Bed and Breakfast and Espy House. The latter was the headquarters for George Washington, who was dispatched to the area with 12,000 troops to put down the Whiskey Rebellion.

For architecture enthusiasts, there's the Old Log Church. Built in 1806, it's the oldest standing church in Bedford and includes a large cemetery whose graves include that of a confederate Civil War soldier. The aptly named Victoria House is a fine example of Victorian architecture. Art Deco fanatics will salivate over Dunkle's Gulf, an Art Deco gas station.

The region boasts 14 covered bridges, which provide splendid photo opportunities in the autumn when the foliage seems to catch fire.

Tice is particularly proud of the Guided Walking Tour. The 90-minute tours are conducted at 3:30 p.m. Fridays from June-October. If you're lucky, he'll be your guide, mixing the area's history with wisecracks and anecdotes. He'll tell you about James Smith, a frontiersman captured by Indians and held for five years before returning to Bedford. Then the ornery Smith led raids on Philadelphia merchants who sold weapons to the Indians. With a band of 10 men, he also captured Fort Bedford from the British. He gave it back to the embarrassed commander, and went on to become a U.S. congressman.

Amble down the main drag and stop in at Bluefield's Herbery for lotions, remedies or sunscreen. The Green Harvest Company is a specialty food shop and organic bakery that serves stacked mozzarella, eggplant and zucchini flatbread sandwiches, as well as rum-roasted pineapple vanilla bean ice cream. Homemade candy is available at the Garnders Candies.

Antique hunters should investigate Founders Crossing. It's in the former G.C. Murphy Building, whose name is incorporated into the tiled floor. The former five-and-dime's windows now are crammed with antiques, including a tarnished bronze rooster weather vane. Inside, a cafe serves sandwiches and drinks, A mural of Bedford covers one wall. Browse the antiques, which include "farm primitive" pieces such as an old milk churn or a wagon wheel.

And, of course, there's Gravity Hill. In nearby New Paris, it lies on a rural two-lane blacktop where water, cars and beach balls all seem to defy Newtonian laws. Tice says the spot gets at least 30,000 visitors a year. Some drive five hours from New York. No UFO enthusiasts, however. Yet.

Details: 800-765-3331 or www.bedfordcounty.net.

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