Lifestyles

Pittsburgh natives Brad and Adam Farmerie's eclectic fusion cuisine is what makes the award-winning AvroKO a hot spot.

art:Madison Park

Peter Haigh/For the Tribune-Review

At 11 Madison Park, in the same glorious Art Deco building as Tabla, talented chef Daniel Humm dazzles with his modern Pan-European dishes.

Which city is the world's best dining destination? Guide Michelin would undoubtedly favor Paris. But France-born Jacques Pepin, without hesitation, says New York City. And few in-the-know disagree. But how to navigate such a vast sea of options? Eat, brother, eat! And here's the dish.

Nice guys finish first.

Daniel Boulud and Danny Meyer started their NYC restaurant careers and subsequent empires differently -- although both have remarkable business acumen. Boulud arrived from France as a sous chef, then bolted to fame through culinary talent. Meyer, bitten by the "restaurant bug," abandoned a successful business services sales career for an even more lucrative one as food entrepreneur.

Boulud's family of restaurants offers: formal, haute cuisine at Restaurant Daniel; a more casual but still elegant experience at Cafe Boulud; sleekly contemporary bustle at DB Bistro Moderne and celestial charcuterie in a casual wine shrine at Bar Boulud. Each restaurant's food is impeccable -- French-inspired, built on French technique, but also innovative and respectful of local, seasonal ingredients. On any given day, you'll see the elegant chef-owner out and about in his kitchens and dining rooms.

Meyer operates hugely popular restaurants. Under veteran chef Michael Romano, Union Square Cafe, launched in 1985, still rocks, serving Modern American, Italian-inflected cuisine. Gramercy Tavern, long-directed by celebrity chef-co-owner Tom Colicchio, now soars even higher with executive chef Michael Anthony's menu of sophisticated yet whimsical dishes. Chef Floyd Cardoz, at Tabla, creates New Indian fare fusing Indian flavors, American ingredients and French techniques.

On Tabla's first floor is the relaxed Bread Bar with a home-style Indian menu. At 11 Madison Park, in the same glorious Art Deco building as Tabla, talented chef Daniel Humm dazzles with his modern Pan-European dishes. Chef Gabriel Kreuther displays his Alsatian roots and tour-de-force technique at The Modern, in the Museum of Modern Art. Adjacent to the main dining room, the buzzing Bar Room is a small-plates magnet for smart urbanites on the go. In fine weather, if tempted by a beautiful burger, hot dogs and frozen custard, head for Shake Shack, in Madison Square Park -- but check out the Webcam online to see how long the queue is.

Imperial-serial restaurateurs

Some restaurateurs possess seemingly insatiable appetites for launching new ventures. Highly visible in this category: Mario Batali (and his partners Lidia and Joe Bastianich); Jean Georges Vongerichten, partnering with Phil Suarez; Myriad Restaurant Group, headed by Drew Nieporent, with backing by such Hollywood superstars as Robert de Niro; and Tom Colicchio, a high-profile chef building his Craft empire. These high-energy trend-setters bring vibrancy to Manhattan dining.

The Molto Mario-Bastianich realm beckons with diversity. Each restaurant is differently delicious, so just match your mood and budget to a reservation. Guided by chef-partner David Pasternak, Esca fabulously exalts seafood, especially crudo, and perfect pastas. Del Posto takes Italian cuisine decidedly up-market, with extravagant decor and uncharacteristic formality. Boisterous Babbo serves robust dishes of pasta, risotto, meats, innards--including a signature lamb's tongue salad -- and Batali's father's legendary salumi. Lupo channels the menu and ambience of a bustling Roma osteria. Otto Enoteca and Pizzeria, parades pizzas as creative canvasses, and at charming Casa Mono and Bar Jamon, terrific tapas satisfy Spanish cravings.

Vongerichten's first NYC eatery, JoJo's, opened in 1991. Recently renovated, it still exhibits a sassy culinary attitude. His next, Vong, also prospers, offering bold Thai-inspired French cuisine. 1997 brought his namesake flagship, Jean Georges, in Trump Tower -- elegant, sophisticated and favored by like-styled patrons. One of New York's finest tables, it's more economically sampled at the fixed-price lunch. The Mercer Kitchen (American - Provencal), Spice Market (Asian street food), Perry Street (minimalist New American), plus outposts across the country and around the world -- the JGV list goes on.

Myriad first opened Tribecca Grill to much acclaim, then proceeded to map out New-style Japanese stardom at Nobu and Classic French at wine-centric Montrachet. The Nobu "brand" expanded, first to more casual Nobu Next Door, then to Nobu Fifty Seven in midtown and, of course, around the globe. More recently, the group's ventured into regional Mexican at Centrico and Vietnamese at highly-lauded Mai House.

The original head judge on Bravo's Top Chef, Colicchio partnered with Danny Meyer to put Gramercy Tavern on the dining map. He then ventured on to open Craft, a concept that lets diners build their own meals from a la carte lists of premium ingredients. Craft begat Craftbar, Craftsteak and 'Wichcraft, a value-primed sandwich eatery in multiple locations--here and throughout the country.

Deep pocket pleasures

Legendary chefs Thomas Keller and Masa Takayama demand stratospheric prices at their temples of gastronomy-- respectively Per Se and Masa, situated just a few yards apart in Warner Center. Yet reservations are neigh impossible to score.

Keller just raised the price of his nine-course tasting menu, the only option (though available in regular or vegetarian form), to $250 per person. That includes a 20 percent gratuity, but add tax, beverages and supplements for such items as foie gras and truffles, and the bill will escalate faster than you can masticate. Still, diners rave, saying the total experience is absolutely worth the price.

Responding to comments about his pricing, Takayama simply says anybody who thinks he charges too much doesn't have to eat there. The omikase (chef's choice) at Masa now costs $400 to $600 per person, plus beverage, tax and tip. Some really special items--the fried sperm sac from fugu fish--can nudge that tab even higher. Yet serious gastronomes, thrilled to claim one of the coveted 26 seats, speak in reverent, adulatory tones about this foodie Nirvana.

Longevity rules

With co-founder Maguy Le Coze still front of house and handsome chef/partner Eric Ripert directing the kitchen, Le Bernadin goes from strength to strength, nimbly adjusting to changing times while staying true to its essence. Expect superlative fish prepared in harmony with French standards, enlivened with global, especially Asian, influences. The restaurant has held a four star rating from the New York Times since its debut in 1986--a record doubling that of any other in the city. Again, catch the more affordable fixed price lunch.

Others with staying power matched to high standards: Chanterelle, owned and operated by Karen and David Waltuck; Charlie Palmer's Aureole; and Alfred Portale's Gotham Bar & Grill.

Playing favorites

Whither chef Michael Psilakis goes, follow. Right now, at flagship Anthos, this fast-rising star is extending the boundaries of his Greek roots--deciphering essential flavor profiles, expanding ingredient choices and reinterpreting traditions with innovation. Garnering world-wide attention, the kitchen defines exciting directions in upscale Greek cuisine. With his partner, restaurateur Donatella Arpaia, he also recently debuted Mia Dona, a replacement for their earlier Greek-infused Italian restaurant, Dona, which sadly lost its lease. For relaxed, more familiar Greek fare, there's Psilakis' other restaurant, Kefi.

The ambiance of Gilt, in the historic Villard Mansion (converted to the New York Palace Hotel), celebrates 1880s opulence, punctuated by stunning contemporary design elements. But the real draw is the brilliant menu crafted by award-winning chef Christopher Lee. Finally, inspired food matches the magnificent interior.

WD-50, on the Lower East Side, is a Mecca for chefs and serious foodies. Chef-owner Wylie Dufresne applies his dynamite talent to creating cutting-edge New American cuisine. New York magazine ranks it as No. 4 out of the 100 best restaurants in the City. Previously sous chef at Jean George, Dufresne pursues kitchen science and molecular gastronomy -- with a strong dose of visual wit. The nine-course tasting menu ($125) offers a delicious eye-opening experience.

Public garners accolades -- for chef Brad Farmerie's eclectic fusion cuisine, and an adventurous Antipodean wine program and the engaging "Municipal" design by brother Adam and his design-architect partners at award-winning AvroKO. The Farmeries are Pittsburgh natives, and their partners are CMU alums. The adjacent Monday Room, presents a delightful wine bar with its ambitious menu and stellar wines by the glass.

To experience Paris in New York, head for Payard, where Francois Payard has created a genuine bistro behind his fabulous pastry shop. Chef de Cuisine Philippe Bertineau serves authentic dishes, plus special salads at lunchtime and traditional French fine dining in the evening. Despite a long wait, for a truly Gallic brunch--and superior people-watching--high-energy Pastis serves up bustling Sunday brunch and Brioche French Toast.

Food with a pedigree

The Farm to Table movement claims strong adherents among New York chefs. Various media dub them "haute peasant," "haute barnyard" or "Greenmarketers."

After six years in the spotlight of Judson Grill, Bill Telepan runs his own restaurant, Telepan. His New American menu, with vibrant flavors, flashes of his Hungarian ancestry and admirable preparations, showcases his suppliers of seasonal, artisinal bounty. He is the author of "Inspired by Ingredients."

Dan Barber, an articulate supporter of sustainability, produces pastured animals, herbs and vegetables on his upstate farm -- for both his restaurant there, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, an old Rockefeller complex; and his Greenwich Village restaurant, Blue Hill. He's known for gentle cooking techniques, including sous vide, clarity of flavors and outstanding Berkshire pork.

For quirky service and a bargain breakfast, Greek-owned Red Flame Coffee Shop serves good food -- especially corned beef hash, a signature omelet and pancakes.

Hot tables

Trendy eyes right now focus not on the fancy and grandiose, but rather on small establishments in odd neighborhoods -- generally downtown, always scorning dress codes and frequently boasting a no-reservation policy.

At the top of the furiously in-demand list are the ventures of David Chang, James Beard Foundation's 2007 Rising Star Chef. Gifted and amazing, Chang brings his Korean roots to sensationally lusty dishes. Momofuku Ssam Bar serves specialties of slow-cooked pork, veal sweetbreads, veal's head terrine and Asian-inflected seafood. Unless you pull together a group of six to eight and advance-order Bo Ssam, a monumental whole pork butt ($180), you join the hour-plus queue. Long lines also loop around his original, relocated, concept, Momofuku Noodle Shop.

Get in line also at: Pearl Oyster Bar; Fatty Crab; The Spotted Pig; Little Owl; and, uptown, Sfoglia.

Other voices

In the fickle New York dining scene, the kitchen landscape changes in a blink when chefs shift locales. Good news: Michael White, who made his name at Fiamma, is winning raves at Alto and L'Impero. James Beard 2007 Best Chef Mid-Atlantic Fabio Trabocchi took over at Fiamma, also to acclaim.

Definitely worth regard: Chef Andrew Carmellini's A Voce; Chef Terrance Brennan's Picholine (French-Mediterranean) and Artisinal Fromagerie (cheese heaven); Marcus Samuelson's Aquavit (New Swedish) and just-opened Merkato 55 (Pan-African); Gray Kuntz's Cafe Gray, in the Time Warner Complex, and Grayz (small plates); Gabrielle Hamilton's Prune; L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon; Gordon Ramsay at The London; and Alain Ducasse's latest, Adour, in the St. Regis Hotel.

We've not yet mentioned the burgeoning steak house scene, a blaze of barbeque joints, ethnic mom-and-pops in Brooklyn, dessert bars, jewel-box Japanese, Chinese favorites and sexy Asian outlets.

So little time ...

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