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Luma: Dishes of distinction

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Luma

Sidney L. Davis/Tribune-Review

Luma Restaurant

Cuisine: American with global influences

Entree price range: $14-$29

Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.- 4 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; dinner, 4-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 4-11 p.m., Fridays-Saturdays, 4-9 p.m. Sundays

Notes: Reservations suggested. Semi-private room available for parties. Catering available. Major credit cards accepted.

Location: 8 Brilliant Ave., Aspinwall

Details: 412-781-0355

About the writer

Luis Fabregas can be reached via e-mail or at 412-320-7998.

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By Luis Fabregas
TRIBUNE-REVIEW
Thursday, December 14, 2006


In less than five years, Luma Restaurant has established itself as a neighborhood favorite whose owners are all about quality -- and sharply executed food.

Luma is a hit because it brought Aspinwall and its surrounding communities something it seriously lacked: a restaurant for grown-ups who long for a stylish meal without a pretentious feel.

The success is such that owners Greg Ackerman and Michael Rudman are opening a Mt. Lebanon location in April.

Ackerman says the menu will be the same at both locations, and that's a wise decision. South Hills residents shouldn't be denied the delicious entrees that make Luma stand out.

Some are classic dishes -- filet mignon, chicken romano -- all with distinctive touches. There are also plenty of dependable fixtures and seafood selections, often with a new twist, as executive chef Kevin Klingensmith makes changes to the menu every six months or so.

At Luma, you have the option to sit in a main dining room -- not too big but cozy and tastefully elegant -- or in an enclosed, heated patio.

We recently chose the dining room, where our waitress graciously suggested that we forego individual glasses of wine for one of the "20 for $20" -- a list of smartly priced bottles that more restaurants should offer.

"It's a marketing tool, and people love it," Ackerman says about the budget-friendly wine.

Luma's selection of appetizers hardly miss a beat.

The Brazilian Calamari ($8) is one of the best fried calamari we've had in a while. It is far from the typical calamari suffocated in batter. In fact, its allure is in the ever-so-light breading that effectively uses thyme as one of its main ingredients. It was addictive.

The Margarita Marinated Chicken Quesadilla ($8.50) was stuffed with pieces of white meat, Monterey Jack cheese and red peppers. It was served with a tangy tequila lime aoili. It was delicious.

The soup of the day was Wedding Soup ($5.50), thick and striking the right amount of freshness and authenticity.

One of Luma's standouts is the Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes ($25). It is without question one of the best crab cakes recipes in town. You'll never see such big pieces of crab and the chef is generous with it. You'll get two nicely sized crab cakes per order, enough for leftovers or someone with a huge appetite. Once you try these crab cakes, it's hard to imagine anything comparable at any other restaurant.

The Veal Cutlet ($19) was just as terrific. It was sauteed with caramelized onions, two types of mushrooms and a marsala demi glace that brought it all into focus.

Also worth noting are the Tenderloin Medallions ($20), another one of Luma's inspired staples. The four pieces of beef are topped with an infused garlic oil that was almost undetectable, and served with spinach fetuccini draped with a creamy alfredo sauce.

The Tiger Shrimp ($15) was sauteed with banana peppers, asparagus and scallions. The Roma tomato cream sauce had a slight kick, enough to complement the shrimp.

But the service at Luma needs an improvement in pacing. We felt like we were being rushed, though we're sure not on purpose. The wait staff, after all, seemed pleasant and attentive to detail. They even refolded our napkins anytime we went to the restrooms.

All desserts at Luma are from Incredible Foods in West Deer. The New York Colossal Cheesecake ($5.50) was the traditional kind, creamy and smooth. The Lemon Torte ($6) had thin layers of shortbread and creamy lemon mouse that was a tad too lemony. There are four other desserts on the menu, including a Fruit Tart ($5.50) and the intriguingly named Monkey Love Cheesecake ($6), made of bananas, of course.

Luma makes a statement with food that is classy but simple in a very pleasant atmosphere. Folks in Mt. Lebanon, you are fortunate to be next.

Ticket restaurant reviewers visit restaurants anonymously. They pay in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews are done only after meals and services have been appraised.


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