Luma serves up American fare with a creative global twist

Diners spilling out onto the patio seem to be enjoying the culinary delights so much that an extra chill in the al fresco experience won't deter them.

And it's a good thing, too, because the extra outdoor seating alleviates - ever so slightly - the tremendous crush of people waiting for tables at the Aspinwall eatery.

Luma, which serves up American fare with creative world cuisine twists, opened in May. It's apparently just what the area needed and is proving popular with the throngs that turn up on Friday and Saturday nights, along with smaller crowds the rest of the week.

Unfortunately, Luma doesn't take reservations for parties of fewer than five people, and the restaurant's greeter reports a 30- to 45-minute wait for the first available table.

There's a bar area to kill some time. But, it, too, is filled. The greeter doesn't direct us to the small, but comfortable, waiting room beyond the bar. We wander back and find it ourselves, along with other customers who seem a bit confused and wonder whether the room is meant to be private.

After exactly 45 minutes, our table is ready and our server apologizes and promises us the food will be worth it.

And overall, he's right.

Starters are numerous - seven appetizers, two soups and four salads on the menu.

We start off with a pair of appetizers: the Brie Baked in Brown Sugar and Pecans ($9) is served with slices of tart Granny Smith apples and crackers, the smooth, mild cheese well balanced with the sweet and tart accompaniments. We also sample the Jumbo Lump Crab Cake ($10) broiled with a red onion caper sauce that's also available as a dinner. Our waiter tells us it is the specialty of the house. It's not fried like traditional cakes and is almost completely made of crab - none of those crumbly, bready cakes with a crab flake here and there. Although some might miss the crunch of a fried crab cake, we welcome a preparation that cuts down on fat and remains delicious in the process.

The She-Crab Bisque ($5) is thick and lightly seasoned. Just remember to stir it a bit before eating - the hot soup is ladled over fresh, chilled crabmeat just before serving.

The appetizer portions are relatively small - and that's not a complaint. There is enough to share among a table of four, and we enjoy having just enough to excite our appetite for the main course.

With more than 20 entree selections, each is more intriguing than the last.

The many seafood selections include a Halibut with Parmesan ($24), a special this evening - and a pleasant one. The thick cut of fish is finished in a light wine sauce and topped with just enough fresh cheese to boost the flavor. It was pronounced a winner by everyone at our table.

For those who prefer their seafood with more bite, there's the Tiger Shrimp Sauteed with Banana Peppers, Scallions and Asparagus ($15). Tossed with cappellini in a roma tomato cream sauce, it's a robust and spicy creation. Thank you, Luma, for not shying away from fiery seasonings. Some of us just can't get enough.

Ribeye Cajun ($19) is chargrilled and topped with a mango guacamole, but the spice isn't as pronounced. The traditional guacamole with a boost from chunks of mango nicely complements the steak - one of the largest ribeyes we've ever seen. But the steak arrives pink in the middle after being ordered well done.

Chicken Breast with Garlic and Shallot Breadcrumbs ($15) sauteed in a lemon Chardonnay sauce is another return to mild - but not dull - flavor. It's savory and light without any one ingredient overpowering the other.

Several menu items will disappear Oct. 21 - the Cajun Ribeye among them - to be replaced with a new fall menu. For meat-eaters, a New York strip steak encrusted with black pepper grilled with a dijon brandy cream will take the place of the ribeye. And cool weather comfort food creations such as Sweet Potato Gnocchi with yellow roasted peppers and crimini mushrooms in a saffron cream sauce will join the menu.

Try to save room for dessert - the selection proves delectable. A warm Pecan Bourbon Tart ($5), served with a dollop of vanilla ice cream, will do nicely on a crisp autumn evening. And a Key Lime Tart ($5) is a refreshing end to the meal.

Our favorite is the Coconut Cream Tart ($5), a sinfully sweet confection that makes everyone at the table wish they'd ordered it for themselves. The five daily dessert offerings - made in house - change continually, offering diners a chance for something new every time.

And because we plan to head back to sample the new fall menu, we'll probably do just that.

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