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"A rose is a rose is a rose," according to the late Gertrude Stein. But it does not necessarily follow that "A rosé is a rosé is a rosé."

The proliferation in recent decades of off-dry, pink-hued wines such as White Zinfandel and White Merlot has made a muddle of the rosé category once dominated by dry wines from the south of France.

Out of the confusion, however, positive trends have emerged. Overtly flawed, oxidized dry rosés are a rarity in today's competitive global marketplace, and an increasing number of domestic producers are turning out top-notch, well balanced, essentially dry pink-hued wines. The improved selection of quality rosés is good news for fans of al fresco dining, because the wines offer superb refreshment with warm-weather cuisine.

All pink-hued wines are produced in essentially the same manner. Clear colored grape juice takes on hue only through contact with red grape skins after the grapes are picked and crushed into the fermentation tank. Dark-colored red wines are given extended contact with the skins to ensure deep, penetrating color. With pink-hued wines, however, the grape juice receives only very brief skin contact before being either pressed or bled off the skins -- called saignée in French.

With sweet pink wines, fermentation is terminated before all the sugar in the juice is turned into alcohol by the voracious yeast cells. With dry rosés, almost all the sugar is fermented into alcohol.

Dry rosés are not intrinsically better than sweeter pink-hued wines. Every consumer should always drink what they genuinely enjoy and prefer. Drinking dry rosés when they do not suit your palate is a capitulation to rank wine snobbery, a fate that should never befall an intelligent, independent-minded and fun-loving wine drinker.

On the other hand, dismissing dry rosés as a group is unwise as well. The best examples have a direct simplicity and refreshing purity that is especially apropos for late spring and summer enjoyment. Well-made dry rosés offer the wonderful lively acidity of well balanced white wines blended with a touch of the aromatic amplitude and fruity texture of red wines.

The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board currently has an especially good selection of rosés. Serve the following wines well chilled:

2004 Bonny Doon Vineyard, Ca' del Solo, Big House Pink, California (Specialty 16103, $9.99): Bonny Doon winemaker Randall Grahm's uncompromising commitment to producing distinctive California dry rosés creates consistently impressive results including this fun little number. Made from a blend of Carignan, Zinfandel and Charbono grapes, the wine offers bright pink color with upfront fruity aromas of raspberry, peach and citrus before delivering fruity flavors of grapefruit and raspberries balanced with crisp acidity through a soft fruity finish. Try it with Mozzarella Caprese salad. Highly Recommended.

Note: Bonny Doon's other excellent dry rosé, the 2004 Vin Gris de Cigare, is a delicious southern Rhône style blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Cinsault and Marsanne with lovely fruit and wonderful crisp balance. It is available nationally at about $11.

2004 Pares Baltà, Rosé de Pacs, Penedès, Spain (Specialty 26672, $9.99): This blend of Cabernet and Merlot has a light red color with pleasant aromas of plums and blackberry opening to fruity berry flavors balanced with good acidity through a soft, quick finish. The wine has an uncanny similarity to lightly sweetened strawberry flavored Kool-Aid, a beverage not altogether inappropriate served very cold during the summer. Try it as an aperitif. Recommended.

2004 Cave de Rasteau, Côtes du Rhône, Les Vigniers, France (Specialty 21218, $9.99): The wine's lovely dark pink color offers fresh aromas of red berries and a touch of lavender before offering vibrant, lush fruit flavors of berries balanced with clean, refreshing acidity. The wine is reminiscent of top notch Tavel rosés at a fraction of the price. Try it with black olive tapenade on bruschetta toast. Highly Recommended.

2004 Commanderie de la Bargemone, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence, France (Specialty 21292, $12.99): The dusty, salmon pink color offers delicate aromas of strawberries with hints of black pepper leading to fruity flavors of raspberry and strawberry with a touch of black pepper balanced by superb, stony acidity through a refreshing dry finish. Try it with mixed greens topped with Manchego cheese, sliced apples and vinaigrette. Recommended.

2004 Niebaum-Coppola, Sofia Rosé, Carneros, California (Special Liquor Order 53992, $18.13): This rare Pinot Noir rosé made from grapes grown in the cold climate Carneros region just north of San Francisco Bay has bright red color, delicate strawberry aromas with floral notes and lively flavors of strawberry through a soft, dry finish. Try it with a cold pasta salad of prosciutto ham, peas and light cream. Recommended.

Cellar Selection

2002 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay 1er Cru, Burgundy, France (Available nationwide at $65): Burgundy enjoyed a magical vintage in 2002 when a stretch of dry and sunny days through September salvaged the crop and delivered grapes of perfect ripeness in pristine condition. This allowed Burgundy's best producers such as Monsieur Lafarge to create classic masterpieces built for graceful cellar aging. For example, this wine has a lovely ruby robe offering complex aromas of raspberries, brown spices and smoky nuances. The concentrated fruit flavors of raspberries have a gorgeous purity and precision balanced with taut acidity and supple, elegant tannins for seamless structure. The wine should continue to evolve nicely for 10 years or more and before showing the majestic complexity and irresistible seductiveness of fully mature red Burgundy. Highly Recommended.

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