News

The subject is antipasto, literally translated from Italian as "before the meal." This year-round favorite lends itself to summer entertaining at home. The choices among items to arrange on platters or serve separately -- like Spanish "tapas" -- are limited only by a party host's imagination.

Executive chef Sam DiBattista of Vivo restaurant in Bellevue, a native of the Abruzzi region of Italy, says he could "talk all day" about antipasto.

"It's something that's done pretty quickly -- grilled vegetables, a cannellini bean salad, peppers stuffed with sausage," he says.

Authentic antipasti -- the individual items are called antipasto -- should be simple and light. DiBattista remembers that his parents would slice oranges and lay them on a platter, drizzle them with olive oil and season with salt and pepper to serve before a meal or to unexpected company.

"That's what we grew up eating," he says, adding that items vary from region to region and usually involve seasonal fresh foods.

There you have it, the first recommendation for this appetizer course meant to tease the palate and get the gastric juices flowing. With a few more items, antipasto can be offered as an entire meal, particularly for al fresco entertaining.

Many of the dishes prepared ahead of time -- or puchased -- and assembled just before serving.

"Anytime we have a party," DiBattista says, "we have a big antipasto bar."

Italians represent the fourth largest ethnic group in Allegheny County -- a tad more than 16 percent, according to the U.S. Census. As a result, Pittsburghers have a wealth of ethnic and specialty markets where authentic ingredients -- raw, prepared, processed, jarred and canned -- are sold.

One such business is DeLallo's Italian Marketplace in Jeannette, which sells everything from marinated fresh mozzarella balls to green cherry peppers stuffed with proscuitto from its antipasto palazzo bar. DeLallo's also manufactures and imports authentic Italian foods sold under the DeLallo label.

"Antipasto is not just a (green) salad with Italian meats and cheeses," says Anthony DiPietro, a grandson of founder George E. DeLallo. He says the family puts an emphasis on antipasto and specialty olives. "It's a whole world of appetizers."

Among the dozens of items at DeLallo's are Calabrese mushrooms; Roman-style artichokes with stems; ciliegine,cherry-sized fresh mozzarella balls, with basil leaves; whole roasted peppers and garlic; lemon pesto and artichoke spread; and cippollini onions in balsamic vinegar and oil. The olive bar, adjacent to the antipasti, ranges from oil-cured from southern Italy to Della DiCerignola from Puglia to Nicoise, Greek and kalamata varieties. More than 100 items are featured.

Customers can pick among the offerings to assemble their own antipasto, using compartmentalized trays.

An authentic antipasto should be light, "something small, not heavy -- lightly grilled or fried or with no cooking involved," DiPietro says. Toasted small pieces of bread can be topped with marinated sun-dried tomatoes; olive- or eggplant-based spreads; roasted red peppers; or just plain drizzled with premium extra-virgin olive oil and seasoned with sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper.

The deli, shelves, dairy case and freezers at Leonard Labriola Foods -- with locations in Aspinwall, Monroeville and Penn Hills -- are loaded with antipasto choices, or customers can special-order a platter.

Large color photographs of sample platters line the walls of the stores. The most common items are marinated artichokes and roasted red peppers; a variety of olives served plain, stuffed or marinated; pickled vegetables, called giardiniera; and assorted Italian cheeses and meats, particularly fontinella and soppressata.

The olives, peppers, pickles, meats and cheeses surround a crab salad made in the store's deli. Any other type of salad is fine, too, depending on dinner guests. Customers can find imported marinated seafood salads, featuring octopus, squid, mussels, clams or fresh sardines next to the deli.

A pate made from canned Italian tuna --tonno-- packed in olive oil is the centerpiece of antipasto served at Zarra's Italian restaurant in Oakland. Chef Judy Zarra calls it "Antipasto Tutto Cosa" -- a menu item for a "relaxing evening fit for a king with friends and family." It must be ordered a day in advance and costs $25 per person, minimum six diners.

In addition to the tuna salad -- a mix of tuna, bleu cheese, romano cheese, onion, balsamic vinegar and Chianti wine -- Zarra adds homemade artichoke hearts marinated in olive oil, garlic, oregano, balsamic vinegar; skinless and boneless sardines; a half-dozen cheeses; a variety of olives; and authentic meats, including sopressata, salami and proscuitto.

Lidia's Pittsburgh in the Strip District features an antipasto bar at its Saturday and Sunday brunches -- $19.95 per person -- according to executive chef Shawn Price, who took over the helm of the kitchen at the restaurant in mid-April.

This season's dishes include a chickpea and tuna salad with shaved red onions, capers and a red wine vinaigrette; new red potato salad with olives and red and green onions; marinated roasted red peppers with fresh basil and a balsamic vinaigrette; Caesar salad (a favorite of customers); an assorted fruit salad; marinated fresh mozzarella cheese; and pickled baby carrots and turnips.

Server Michael Pilarski keeps an eye on the buffet-style bar, which is offered to diners as a first course, to let Price know when supplies are getting low.

"We replenish it often so it always looks good," Price says. The recipes are from co-owner Lidia Mattichio Bastianich's repertoire -- some are in her cookbooks. "We don't always use the same ingredients," adds the chef, who transferred to Pittsburgh from Lidia's Kansas City restaurant in Missouri, " but we use her techniques and always her sensibilities." A selection of nine entrees is on the main-dish menu, with a dessert buffet as the finishing touch.

Antipasto need not be limited to foods served cold or at room temperature, DiBattista says. A thin omelet called a frittata is also appropriate. Fill it with chopped asparagus or other favorite seasonal vegetables, he suggests.

Calamari and octopus also have an important place on the antipasto platter. In addition to lightly grilling these items -- quick cooking will keep them from toughening -- cooks can stuff and bake them. DiBattista likes a filling of raisins, pine nuts, bread crumbs, egg, onions, olive oil, salt and pepper for calamari.

But, back to the simple:

"Prosciutto and melon are a fantastic combination," he says. "You can use a seasoned puree of liver on crostini. Also, carpaccio, veal tenderloin thinly sliced and laid on a platter, accompanied by marinated artichokes, chopped arugula and shaved Parmesan, all of it drizzled with olive oil and salt.

"It's endless. Use what you had in the refrigerator from the night before. Make something out of it. It's an interesting way to start a meal."

The following recipes are a good representation of items fit for antipasto entertaining.

Gouda-Stuffed Mushrooms

This recipe is from the California Milk Advisory Board.

• 6 ounces pancetta or Canadian bacon, finely diced
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 small onion, finely diced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 cup packed fresh spinach, chopped
• 2 cups (8 ounces) shredded Gouda cheese
• 3/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• Salt and black pepper, freshly ground, to taste
• 24 (2-inch wide) crimini mushroom caps

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

In a medium skillet, saute the pancetta over medium-high heat until crisp, for about 3 minutes. Remove to a mixing bowl. Discard the fat from the skillet. Melt the butter in the same skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; saute for 3 minutes. Stir in the spinach and cook just until wilted. Add to the pancetta and allow to cool slightly. Stir in the cheese, bread crumbs and basil. Season with salt and pepper.

Place the mushrooms on a baking sheet. Mound about 2 1/2 teaspoons of the cheese mixture into the center of each mushroom cap. Bake for 8 minutes. Serve hot.

Makes 8 servings (3 mushrooms each).

Roasted Cauliflower Salad

This recipe is from Tabasco.

• 6 cups cauliflower florets
• 1 sweet red pepper, seeded and cut into strips
• 1 leek, sliced
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 teaspoons hot pepper sauce
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon dried
• 1 clove garlic, crushed
• 1 (16 ounces) can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
• Shaved Parmesan cheese

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

In a roasting pan, combine the cauliflower, pepper strips, leek, olive oil, hot pepper sauce, salt, rosemary and garlic. Toss to mix well. Roast for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Stir in the garbanzo beans. Cook 10 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Serve with shaved Parmesan cheese.

Farmers Market Fresh Mozzarella Salad

This recipe is from the California Milk Advisory Board.

• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 10 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt and black pepper, freshly ground, to taste
• 1 ear of corn, blanched, cooled and kernels cut from cob
• 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
• 1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
• Butter lettuce leaves
• 1 bunch asparagus tips, blanched and cooled
• 2 medium zucchini, thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 2 yellow squash, thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 4 small tomatoes, cut into wedges
• 1 medium-size orange sweet pepper, cut into thin strips
• 3/4 to 1 pound fresh mozzarella cheese, more if desired, sliced

To make the dressing, in a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar and lemon juice. Slowly whisk in the oil until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper.

In another bowl, combine the corn, red onion and parsley with 2 tablespoons dressing. Set aside the relish and remaining dressing.

To assemble the salads, line 4 dinner plates or a large platter with lettuce leaves. Assemble the vegetables in bundles and decoratively arrange on the greens. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the greens and vegetables. Place cheese slices in the center of the plate(s). Sprinkle relish over the cheese and vegetables. Serve immediately.

Polenta Pizzas with Herb Goat Cheese

This recipe is from McCormick. The polenta also can be grilled.

• Vegetable cooking spray
• 5 ounces soft goat cheese (chevre)
• 1 teaspoon dried basil leaves
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
• 1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil
• 2 cups sliced mushrooms
• 1 sweet red pepper, cut in 1/4-inch strips and halved
• 1 roll (24 ounces) precooked traditional polenta, cut in 1/4-inch-thick slices

Heat the broiler. Coat a large cookie sheet with vegetable cooking spray.

In a small bowl, blend the cheese with the basil and thyme. Set aside.

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and sweet pepper. Saute for 8 to 10 minutes or until done. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Place the polenta slices on the prepared cookie sheet. Broil for 5 to 7 minutes per side. Spread the herbed cheese mixture over one side of each slice. Top with mushrooms and peppers. Serve warm.

Makes about 24 mini pizzas.

Fromage Blanc with Olive Almond Tapenade

Spread this simple but flavorful cheese preparation onto bread or crackers. This recipe is from the California Milk Advisory Board. Fromage blanc is a cheese with the consistency of sour cream. Look for it at specialty food stores and from cheesemongers.

• 1 cup slivered almonds
• 8 ounces pitted green olives
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram, plus a few sprigs for the garnish
• 8 ounces fromage blanc cheese

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the almonds on a baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, watching closely, until lightly browned. Let cool, and reserve 2 tablespoons for the garnish.

Place the remaining almonds in a food processor and pulse until chopped medium-fine. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the marjoram.

Place the olives and olive oil in a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add to the almond mixture and mix well.

Spread half of the fromage blanc in the bottom of a small glass serving bowl. Spread the olive mixture evenly over the fromage blanc. Spread the remaining cheese over the olive layer. (You also can repeat the layers.)

Garnish with almonds and marjoram sprigs. Can be made ahead; garnish at serving time. Chill; serve at room temperature.

Green Bean, Yellow Bean & Red Pepper Salad

This recipe is from "Sensational Salads," a new book by Barbara Scott-Goodman (Stewart Tabori & Chang, $22.50). The author writes: "Make it ahead of time and serve chilled, or make shortly before eating and serve at room temperature."

• 3/4 pound green beans, ends trimmed
• Salt
• Water
• 3/4 pound yellow beans, ends trimmed
• 2 sweet red peppers, seeded, deveined and cut into thin strips
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley, for garnish

Vinaigrette

• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 2 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and black pepper, freshly ground, to taste

Cook the green and yellow beans in enough lightly salted boiling water to cover for about 2 minutes, until crisp-tender. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Drain again.

In another pot, cook the peppers in enough lightly salted boiling water to cover for about 3 minutes, until just tender. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Drain.

Combine the beans and peppers in a large bowl.

In a small bowl, mix the mustard, vinegar and soy sauce. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until the vinaigrette thickens. Season with salt and pepper

Pour the dressing over the vegetables and toss well. Chill, or serve at room temperature. Garnish with fresh parsley just before serving.

Herb Frittata

Restaurateur, chef, cooking teacher and cookbook author Lidia Bastianich recommends this frittata from her new book, "Lidia's Family Table" (Alfred A. Knopf, $35). "These small frittate make a wonderful appetizer cut in wedges and served at room temperature," she writes.

• 2 large eggs
• 2 tablespoons milk
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
• 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 1 teaspoon butter
• 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

In a bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, salt and fresh herbs until just blended.

Heat the butter and oil in a small frying pan until the mixture just starts to sizzle, then pour in the eggs and turn the heat down very low. Cook gently for 3 to 4 minutes. The eggs will start to puff up and sizzle at the edges.

Lift a corner of the frittata, using a spatula, and check to see whether the bottom has browned in splotches. When it has, flip it over by giving the pan a firm, quick shake up and over toward you so that the egg mass dislodges and flips over in one piece. Or, turn the frittata over, using a spatula.

Cook the second side for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, again checking to see whether the bottom has browned to your liking.

Serve immediately, or let cool to room temperature and cut in wedges to serve.

Spotlight on ham

Italy's most famous ham -- called prosciutto -- needs little embellishment for an antipasto platter. Here are serving suggestions:

• sliced thin with a little white bread or breadsticks (grissini)
• with slices of melon
• with figs
• with cracked black pepper
• with other cured meats
• wrapped around asparagus stalks
• arranged as a "fountain": slices of ham are laid out in a circle around a glass in the middle of the plate

Source: "Culinaria: European Specialties" edited by Joachim Romer and Michael Ditter (Koneman, 1995)

• Most Read
• Most E-mailed
• Latest News