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Picture a landscape of endless white sand beaches with world class surfing cheek to jowl with wide dessert expanses blistering with heat upwards of 110 degrees Fahrenheit.

Grape growing does not immediately leap to mind, yet this is precisely the situation in Western Australia, Australia’s largest State spanning the continent’s entire western third next to the Indian Ocean.

In complete candor, Western Australia’s vineyards do not cover the entire length of this isolated and awesome expanse. Instead the vines and winemaking are focused in the southwestern tip around and south of the city of Perth and further down on the southern coast near Albany. It is still quite hot, as British wine writer Oz Clarke observes, “People bake; grapes bake.”

A fortuitous combination of geography and rivers, however, salvages the situation by funneling maritime winds whipping off the oceans inland to moderate temperatures just enough to permit proper grape ripening. Infertile soils and limited, but adequate rainfall complete the salubrious vineyard conditions.

Today Western Australia’s table wine scene has really taken off with over two hundred wineries selling their wares both in Australia and around the globe. Until the most recent renaissance, however, the wine production was limited primarily to high alcohol, overripe, fortified wines instead of balanced table wines with one notable exception—Houghton White Burgundy.

Houghton’s success was attributable in large part to legendary winemaker Jack Mann who oversaw a remarkable fifty vintages at the winery during the last century. While spending his entire life in Western Australia happily immersed in grape growing and winemaking, Mann stayed true to his belief in the region as a producers of great wine.

According to Mann, “Wine must have three qualities. It must be glowing with life, adorned with flavor, and blessed with refinement. Refinement is the complete absence of the commonplace.”

Today his vision is being realized both at Houghton and other wineries in Western Australia as the best grape growing terroir is continuously explored and cultivated to produce quality fruit for fine wines.

In addition, modern technology such as stainless steel fermentation permits winemakers to preserve the natural fruitiness of the grapes. And unlike many other parts of Australia, most Western Australian winemakers still exercise judicious restraint in oak barrel aging to create unpretentious, distinctive and highly admirable table wines.

For example, Houghton’s current winemaker, industry veteran Rob Bowen, ferments only a small percentage of his Chardonnay in oak barrels while tank fermenting the remainder of the juice. The fermented wine rests several months on the lees to add creaminess and complexity to the final wine, but he eschews malolactic fermentation to preserve crisp acidity in the wine.

First and foremost throughout the process Bowen’s aim is to achieve elegance and richness rather than overwhelming power and gaudiness. No doubt Jack Mann is looking down and smiling.

Try the following very tasty table wines:

2002 Devil’s Lair, Fifth Leg White Wine, Western Australia (Specialty 28026, $10.99): This zesty, free spirited blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay has intriguing aromas of pears, grapefruit and quince with herbal overtones opening to lush, fruity flavors of melons and citrus with herbal accents balanced by fine acidity and a creamy finish. Try it with grilled tuna. Recommended.

2005 Houghton, Chardonnay, Western Australia (7833, On Sale: $12.99): Clean, bright aromas of grapefruit, melons and quince with just a touch of oak nuance lead to refreshing, creamy flavors of kiwi, guava, grapefruit and peaches balanced with fine acidity and a dry, elegant finish. Try it with salmon in a capers and cream sauce. Highly Recommended.

2004 Houghton, Shiraz, Western Australia (7837, On sale: $12.99): Made from old vines unaffected by the nettlesome phyloxera parasitic louses that have ravaged vines around the world, has lovely aromas of plums and berries with light black pepper and spice accentsthrough fruity plums flavors and a soft, silky finish with refined tannins and fine balance. Try it with beef stew with vegetables. Highly Recommended.

2003 Hope Winery, “The Ripper” Shiraz, Western Australia (Special Liquor Order 66526, $14.59): While being shipped from Western Australia to the winery in eastern Australia, the crushed grapes for this wine go through extended soaking on the skins under cool temperatures prior to fermentation (also called “maceration”). The resulting wine has a deep ruby color, pleasant fruity aromas of plums leading to lively flavors of plums with hints of pepper balanced by firm acidity and moderate tannins. Try it with grilled steaks. Recommended.

2002 Evans & Tate, Shiraz, Margaret River, Western Australia (7940, On Sale: $16.99): The Margaret River region is surrounded by water three sides to create one of Western Australia’s most promising grape growing subregions. This wine has deep purple color with complex aromas of plums and blackberry jam with pepper hints leading to lush flavors of ripe plums and berries with chocolate, spice and oak accents through a soft, yet finely balanced finish. Try it with skirt steak braised in red wine, shallots, mushrooms and cream. Highly Recommended.

Best Buys:

2004 Stone Cellars by Beringer, Pinot Grigio, California (5289, On Sale: $5.49: Refreshing aromas and flavors of citrus and pears are balanced through a dry finish. Recommended.

2004 Stone Cellars by Beringer, Chardonnay, California (5124, On Sale: $5.49): Full fruity aromas and flavors of apples and citrus are accented with rich oak tones through a rich, fruity, but dry finish. Recommended.

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