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The newest trend in fashion reflects a role reversal of traditional sensibilities. This season, it's out with the new, in with the old — clothes, that is.

Vintage fashion has been climbing the ladder of popularity for several years now with trendy club kids and graduate students across the country.

However, it was Julia Roberts' Oscar attire from 2001 — a vintage black-and-white Valentino design — that sparked the current interest in designer vintage fashion. This trend has completely changed the consumer base of vintage fashion. Purveyors of vintage used to capitalize on the shabby chic look, popularized by Diane Keaton in "Annie Hall," and their client base was neo-bohemians.

Since Roberts wore "that dress," fashionistas can't get enough of designer vintage duds, and magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar have devoted much attention to the retro trend. Because of the trickle-down effect resulting from the vast readership of various fashion magazines, women around the country are clamoring for designer vintage fashions.

The difference between designer vintage and plain old vintage is basically a few hundred dollars or so. If you think an $8 blouse from the thrift shop will cut it, think again. The new trend is label conscious, and the goods must be in peak condition. This means that no musty scents or mothball holes are acceptable.

Owners of various vintage stores in Pittsburgh say they have noticed a large market for designer vintage duds, although not always locally.

"There's a big market, though not necessarily in Pittsburgh. We sell a lot of designer vintage stuff to people that are in Pittsburgh from out of town. I have a dealer in New York that buys stuff from us, and we sell it over the Internet," says Michael Ferrucci, co-owner of Hey Betty, a vintage clothing store in Shadyside.

But Donna Belda, owner of Old Friends, a consignment shop in Brentwood, says demand for designer vintage is on the rise locally.

"I think the market is growing. Designer vintage is very popular in New York. The more the word spreads, more people will look into it, and begin to respect it," Belda says.

Local retailers mainly get their inventory of designer vintage fashion locally, through estate sales, private sources and referrals. Ferrucci says it is difficult to procure designer vintage fashions for resale.

"In all the years that I've been selling vintage, I've noticed that it's difficult to get designer vintage. I don't know what exactly the deal is — if it's because people hold on to them longer because they're designer and they paid more for them or what, but it's definitely difficult," Ferrucci says.

The retailers have some stipulations they follow when deciding what vintage fashions to buy. The primary guideline is that the piece must be in near-perfect condition. Other factors include the designer of the piece and the season's current popular styles.

"Style is number one; just because a piece is made by a famous designer doesn't mean that it will sell. I look for pieces that are representative of the particular designer's style — pieces that haven't been overproduced. Some of the pieces are relatively current, like from the 1980s. They don't have to be from the 1950s," says Richard Parsakian, owner of Eons, a vintage store in Shadyside.

Florence Rouzier, owner of Ambiance, a consignment boutique in Regent Square, says she looks for one-of-a-kind pieces.

"Truly, it must fit my idiosyncratic taste. There are certain designers that I absolutely love. I look for details, craftsmanship and imaginative design. I absolutely love clothes with beautiful details. Claire McCardell, for example, uses hardware detailing. She was ahead of her time; Gaultier currently replicates her style," Rouzier says.

The retailers agree that the vintage duds must be stylish by the current season's standards. For the summer, peasant attire, mod clothing and 1970s Halston-inspired disco wear are de rigeur.

Hey Betty carries lots of peasant wear because of an untapped gold mine Ferrucci discovered when he began negotiating an estate sale with a woman who apparently had a penchant for the high-end hippy look.

Try on an Yves Saint Laurent silk peasant blouse, in navy or red, with a floral inlay and an open V-neck that closes with a silk tassel cord for $125 at Hey Betty. Other boho offerings at the Ellsworth enclave include a 1960s Christian Dior lightweight cotton and lace cap-sleeved jacket, with drawstring closure at the waist, featuring a pale pink ribbon inset, for $75, and a Jean Varon 1970s burnt orange, one-shouldered ruffled gown for $75.

Old Friends has several designer offerings, but most date back only a few years. Keeping in the 1970s era, try on a St. John black knit cocktail dress with a ruffled, one-shoulder bodice, circa 1970s, for $73.

At Ambiance, Rouzier has hand-picked many distinctive designer vintage duds. Notable separates include a 1960s Pierre Cardin canary yellow, linen pantsuit for $65. The sleeveless top has a peplum hem and Peter Pan collar, which is paired with palazzo pants. Also from the 1960s is a Pauline Trigere white linen mod vest and matching miniskirt for $48. Both pieces are bias-cut and feature oversized electric blue polka dots.

Moving forward in time, Ambiance also has offerings from the disco era. Make like Jerry Hall at Studio 54 and try on an Yves Saint Laurent 1970s silk chiffon, multitiered dress in black and burnt red ($150). For the roller girl wanna-be, don your very own Oscar de la Renta belted black linen jumper with white contrast top-stitching and side slits up to the waist. To avoid overexposure, the set includes matching hot pants and is muy caliente for a cool $65.

Vintage on the Web

If you're having trouble finding the vintage haute couture that your little heart craves in the Pittsburgh vicinity, you might want to peruse the Internet for a wider — albeit much pricier — selection of designer vintage duds.

Often, retailers will put their most prized pieces for sale over the Internet, where they can appeal to a much broader audience and also can command higher prices than they could in their home markets.

Chances are the merchandise sold over the Internet will be rare, in mint condition and a collector's item.

Madeline Meyerowitz, co-owner of the St. Louis, Mo.-based enokiworld.com, says that for her to buy a piece of vintage for resale, it must be in mint condition.

"The designer is very important, and the piece must be a good representation of that designer. The condition of the piece is absolutely critical," Meyerowitz says.

Enokiworld.com specializes in high-end, big-name designer labels. Sample items include a 1950s Koret silk handbag with gold sequins, $205, and a 1970s Pucci signature print floor-length shirtdress for $785.

Meyerowitz says her clientele consists mainly of models and Hollywood entertainment industry people.

Richard Parsakian, owner of Eons in Shadyside, says he sells his more rare and expensive pieces over the Internet.

"A lot of my designer pieces are not made available to the public," he says. "Pittsburgh is one of the cheaper markets worldwide. I either sell my designer pieces over the Internet or to collectors and dealers, who then resell them."

Parsakian also has sold his wares to celebrities and their stylists who are passing through town.

"There was a woman who worked with Madonna and Lenny Kravitz that came in looking for high-end 1970s stuff. I also sold a bunch of stuff to Debra Messing when she was in town," Parsakian says.

Another time, a costume designer bought a 1950s number from Parsakian for Winona Ryder.

If you are wary of buying goods over the Internet, Patti Parks McClain, founder of the Museum of Vintage Fashion in the San Francisco Bay Area, has a few pearls of wisdom to live by.

"Number one," McClain says, "the label must be there and it must be an original, not a copy. Having some advance knowledge is key. The good must be in mint condition — it cannot be altered in any way. The good also should be recently cleaned — you don't want to pick up any dermatology."

McClain also advises the prospective buyers of vintage couture to visit a museum and view the costume collection to get a brief education before blindly venturing into cyberspace, credit card in hand.

McClain offers some final words of advice to shoppers.

"Get out books on designers and find out what the items are worth. Exercise great caution — don't buy anything from eBay that you can't return. Value is determined by the rarity of the item, and its value lies in its preservation. Goods will only have value when they cease to be, and then there will be price wars."

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